Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 883

en suite. The friendly owners organize sandboarding
(BsF14 0) and o ther tri ps throughout the area. Dorms
BsF80 , doubles BsF140

Market There's a small food market on C Garcés at C Colón
(daily until about 7pm), where you can pick up supplies
for self-catering.

EATING AND DRINKING
There are a number of inexpensive restaurants in Coro,
many doubling as bars in the evening, although opening
hours are generally lax. Be sure to try chivo (goat), the
regional speciality.
La Gran Costa Nova Av Manaure opposite Hotel
Intercaribe . This panadería makes good coffee and bakes
great bread, pastelitos and cakes. It's also a good spot to
stock up on provisions for your posada's kitchen. If you're
eating in, pay at the till first and give your receipt to the
staff behind the counter. Daily 6am-9pm.
El Guaro C Ampiés, at Maparari T 0268 989 0333.
This bright-green eatery is a popular place five blocks
south of the cathedral, taking pride in the authenticity of
its local cuisine. You'll have to come on a Thurs to sample
the chivo , while the chicken is particularly good the rest
of the week. Daily 6am-3pm, although the menu is more
limited on Sun.
Ì Sabor Latino Paseo Alameda T 0268 252 4139.
Miniature houses and marginally amusing jokes scrawled
across the walls (test your Spanish to see how many you
understand) at this popular joint, which takes its Latin
Flavour name from more than the food. Staff are friendly
and the grub is cheap. The chivo (BsF35) comes a few
different ways, while the juices (BsF7) are bigger and
better than you'll get in the street. Mon-Fri, 6am-4pm,
until 8pm Fri.
Shangrila Av Josefa Camejo, at C Toledo T 0416 360
2832. Taiwanese Tony Lee runs this no-nonsense vegeta-
rian joint, where you can have your plate filled with
noodles, dumplings or plantain for BsF7 per serving. Also
does ice-cold frappés for BsF10 if the air conditioning
isn't su cient respite from the heat outside. Mon-Sat
7am-3pm.
El Tinajero C Zamora next to Casa Tun Tun T 0268 460
0135. The food doesn't resemble the ambitiously gourmet
photos on the menu, but big servings of chicken, beef or
fish (BsF40) washed down with cheap beers (BsF6) don't
leave much room for complaint. Locals prop up the bar to
take advantage of the latter and will be happy for you to
join them after you've eaten. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Banco Venezuela on Av Talavera,
Banco Mercantil on C Falcón.
Internet Hotel Intercaribe opposite La Gran Costa Nova on
Av Manaure has a popular internet café next door, BsF5/hr.
Daily 8am-8pm.
Laundry All the listed accommodation choices have
laundry services. Otherwise, Lavatín on C Falcón ( T 0268
251 671) has an English-speaking owner and will wash
clothes for BsF30/load. Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat until 2pm.
Pharmacy Farmacia Santa Catalina, C Federación, on
Falcón, Mon-Fri 8am-3pm. There's another two blocks
south of La Gran Costa Nova on Av Manaure.
Phones Movistar call centre at C Falcón between Plaza
Falcón and Av Manaure, Mon-Sat 8am-6pm. Also Digitel,
at Paseo Talavera.
Post Ipostel, Casa de las 100 Ventanas, C Ampíes. Mon-Fri
8am-4pm.

11

Mérida and
the Andes
Occupying the northernmost limit of the
Andes range, the mountainous state of
Mérida is a region of lofty peaks and raw
natural beauty. The region has long been
Venezuela's most popular backpacker
destination, and facilities for budget
travellers are among the best in the
country. The state capital, also called
Mérida, has a sizeable student population,
resulting in some of the country's most
entertaining nightlife; an excellent way to
blow of steam after any of the various
adventure sports the region is known for.
To the city's south and east, the Parque
Nacional Sierra Nevada , dominated by the
famed Pico Bolívar (5007m) and Pico
Humboldt (4920m), offers some of the
finest hiking opportunities in the region.
To the north, the Carretera Transandina,
or the Trans-Andean Highway, passes
several charming mountain towns on
its weaving way to Barinas, including
Apartaderos , which has one of the world's
highest observatories, the Observatorio
Astronómico Nacional .

SHOPPING
Artesanía There are a few places selling artesanía in Coro,
though none of it is very compelling. Local potters sell
their wares in Plaza Falcón, and the Centro Artesanal next
to Plaza San Clemente has a momentarily diverting array
of paintings, dioramas and dulce de leche made from
goat's milk. O cially, it's open daily 9am-6pm, though
the vendors tend to operate on their own schedules.