Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 877

Jalio C Concepción. The most upscale option in town,
promising tapas by day and cocktails by night. Thurs-Sat,
if the owners feel like it.
Pescaíto Along the path to Playa Grande. The closest that
Puerto Colombia gets to a club, atop a low hill across the
bridge. Open until dawn when the fishermen head out to
catch the nightspot's namesake.

by the irresponsible placement of some
ugly high-rises. Playa Catica , an hour-long
hike or short boat ride (BsF25/person)
from Cata, is smaller and less crowded.
Farther east, legendary surfing beach
Playa Cuyagua can get fairly large waves,
so swimmers should exercise caution.

SHOPPING
For food to cook in your posada's kitchen, you can buy fish
directly from the fishermen on the malecón or go to
Pescaderia Choroní down the side of Bar La Playa . There are
numerous fruit and veg stands at the sea-end of Av Los Cocos.
Cooperativa Alcatours C Morillo, at Independencia
T 0414 237 0797, E [e-mail]. Interes-
ting “cacao-arte” and artesanía made by the husband-wife
owners. Daily 8am-6pm.
Sabor A Cacao C José Maitín T 0243 673 1449. Excellent
chocolate products, including cocoa butter lip-salve from
nearby Chuao. Daily 9am-1pm, 3-7pm.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses run to and from Maracay (hourly; 90min),
but the ride is a rough one, so if there's enough of you,
share a taxi.
By taxi Taxis (BsF250) from Maracay depart from the gas
station outside the terminal entrance ( por puestos don't
operate this route).

11

GETTING AROUND
By bus All buses stop at Ocumare de la Costa's main plaza.
Buses depart regularly to Playa Cata (every 20min; 30min)
and Playa Cuyagua (every 20min; 40min).
By boat Lanchas to La Ciénaga and Playa Cuyagua depart
from La Boca at the eastern end of Ocumare's malécon and
should cost around BsF300 for the day (negotiate depending
on where you want to go). The staff at Eco-Lodge (see below)
can arrange trips for you.

DIRECTORY
Bank There is a BNC ATM at the bus terminal. You can
change dollars at some hotels.
Internet Hostal Colonial has a computer you can use for
BsF4/hr until 10pm, or wi-fi which you can jump onto for
free if you're nice to the owner.
Pharmacy A small pharmacy next door to Brisas del Mar
(see opposite) is open Mon-Sat 8.30am-9pm.
Phones Movistar, C Concepción, for mobile phone credit.
Otherwise, ask at your accommodation or head for the
malecón, where there will usually be someone with a
phone on a plastic table to rent by the minute.
Post o ce Half a block south of the Plaza Bolívar in
Choroní. Theoretically open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm.

ACCOMMODATION
Eco-Lodge T 0243 993 1986, W ecovenezuela.com. The
best accommodation in El Playón is the luxurious Eco-lodge
at the western end of the malecón. This posada also runs
Coral La goon Lodge (see box below). Breakfast included.
BsF625

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Coral Lagoon Lodge La Ciénaga
W corallagoonlodge.com. Located right on
the shores of La Ciénaga lagoon, Coral
Lagoon Lodge might just be the most
relaxing place on Venezuela's northwest
coast. An all-inclusive overnight package
here includes boat transfers, kayaks and
snorkelling equipment, fantastic meals
involving plenty of fresh fish and drinks.
For two days, life won't get any more
taxing than deciding between a swim,
early morning turtle-spotting or that
hammock under a tree. During the week,
particularly outside the July-Sept school
holiday season, you'll probably have the
whole magical lagoon virtually to yourself.
If your budget won't stretch to an
overnight stay, note that the owners at
Ocumare's Eco-Lodge organiz e day- trips to
La Ciénaga. Package/person

OCUMARE DE LA COSTA
he beach at nearby El Playón is the most
diverting feature of OCUMARE DE LA
COSTA , not that it's anything special.
However, various spots nearby which are
worth a look make Ocumare the best
place to base yourself if snorkelling,
waterfalls and lagoons pique your
interest. Only accessible by lancha ,
La Ciénaga is a beautiful lagoon nearby
where day-trippers go to sunbathe, swim
and lounge about the picture-postcard
scenery. For those of a more active
disposition the lagoon offers some of the
area's best snorkelling.
Around 5km east of El Playón is Playa
Cata , which is attractive but rather sullied

US$180