Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 876

To combine these beaches in a single
trip, negotiate a price (aim for around
BsF700 for the day) with the lanchero .
Pack a lunch.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The only road to Choroní is from Maracay.
Buses (every 2hr; 2hr) leave when full until 8pm and cost
BsF30. Puerto Colombia is a safe 15min stroll from the bus
terminal. Take a left out of the entrance and follow the
other passengers.
By boat If you're coming from or going to Ocumare de la
Costa, a rapid and scenic alternative is to negotiate a ride
with a lanchero from either end. The price should be around
BsF300 and the trip takes an hour.
By taxi Taxis from Maracay cost around BsF250 and take
half the time. Alternatively, take a seat in a por puesto
(shared taxi) for BsF60. Both depart regularly from the
Maracay terminal.

Posada Los Guanches C Colón. The only noise you'll
be disturbed by in this mercifully cool building is your
own echo. Run by the welcoming family that lives on the
opposite side of the flowery backstreet, rooms are fan-
cooled, en suite and basi c. Have a browse of the odd
bamboo jewellery on sale. BsF130

EATING
The following options are all in Puerto Colombia (all but
one on Av Los Cocos), and here you'll also find a small
courtyard opposite the malecón where kitchens open in
the evenings and serve up excellent hamburgers and
hotdogs. There are numerous shacks lining the path to
Playa Grande that sell plates of fish, rice and salad for
around BsF30 until the foot tra c coming back from the
beach slows down.

11

PUERTO COLOMBIA
Brisas del Mar T 0243 991 1268. Not the most peaceful
place in town to eat, being next to Bar La Playa (see
below), but Brisas offers calamarí five ways (all BsF70) as
well as non-seafood options such as pabellón and pasta.
Locals also recommend the soups at Restaurant Puerto
Colombia next door. Daily 8.30am-11pm.
Ì Coco Café Cacao C Union at Plaza Bolívar T 0426
833 7920. The pastries, cakes and coffee are good here,
but people queue up for the signature ice creams (BsF10).
You can choose from a variety of flavours, but given that
they use the locally grown cacao to make the chocolate
popsicle, it's a good test of free will. Puts a percentage of its
profits into local community projects. Daily 8am-10pm,
Sat until midnight.
Oasis T 0243 711 1666. Anglophile owner Raúl, who
studied art in London in the 1980s, whips up delicious
seafood dishes from his bamboo-walled kitchen. Excellent
Creole breakfasts (BsF40), fresh juices (BsF15) and healthy
touches such as bran arepas . His artwork adorns the walls
of the attractive covered courtyard. Daily 8am-10pm.
Restaurant Araguaneyes T 0243 991 1166. Enjoy
huge portions of fresh fish and seafood (BsF70) on the
large upstairs terrace while listening to music that for
once isn't salsa. Also open for breakfast. Daily 8am-11pm.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Claudia, the owner of Casa Luna Espinoza (see below), can
organize tours of the park, the chocolate plantations in Chuao
and speedboat trips to various beaches along the coast.

ACCOMMODATION
Camping isn't especially worthwhile as there is a good
selection of budget accommodation in Puerto Colombia.
Reservations are recommended in the high season.

PUERTO COLOMBIA
Casa Luna Espinoza C Morillo T 0243 951 5318,
W jungletrip.de. Knowledgeable German dueña Claudia
speaks English, while her surly Venezuelan staff barely
speak at all. This hostel is a good choice with a communal
kitchen, dining table, wi-fi and hammocked courtyard,
although the dormitory is next to the noisy main road.
Also runs two other posadas in town and can sort out
an exploration of Henri Pittier. Don't be surprised if the
needy cat gets i nto bed with you in the morning. Dorms
BsF70 , doubles BsF120
Ì Hostal Colonial C Morillo T 0243 431 8757,
E [e-mail]. Rooms are stylish, good
value and numerous at this friendly guesthouse with
fountains, wi-fi and a good restaurant. The affable staff
speak English, Italian and German while the spacious
rooms (some with en suite and a/c) are fan -cooled and
thankfully set back from the noisy main road. BsF100
Habitaciones Mayitas C Rangel 12 T 0243 991 1141.
Look for the dolphins stencilled on the wall rather than
a sign in this cluttered family-run homestay. The friendly
atmosphere and over-equipped kitchen makes up for
the five rather cramped rooms, some wi th a/c, ranging in
size from a double to a sextuple. BsF120

DRINKING
Nightlife, if you can call it that, is very casual - most
people just buy a few beers and drink them on the
malecón.

PUERTO COLOMBIA
Bar La Playa At the beach end of Av Los Cocos. By day,
holidaymakers laze about in the plastic chairs on the
covered patio, sipping beers and watching the fishermen
come and go. At night, the focus is on rum, high-volume
salsa and getting flirty. Daily until late.