Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 875

daily; 7hr); Maracaibo (2 daily; 9hr); Mérida (3 daily; 12hr);
San Cristóbal (3 daily; 12hr); Puerto la Cruz (2 daily; 10hr);
Puerto Ordaz (2 daily; 14hr); San Fernando de Apure
(3 daily; 6hr). Buses for Choroní and Ocumare de la Costa
depart from the terminal when full (usually every 30min)
until 9pm.

of the main Choroní-Puerto Colombia
road, follow Calle Cementerio past the
cemetery, bear left at the split and follow
it around the headland to the sea.
To access the other nearby beaches you
will need to take a lancha , which can be
arranged at the malecón. To the east,
the closest beach is Playa Valle Seco
(BsF50/person return), which has some
coral reefs and decent snorkelling. Farther
east, Playa Chuao (BsF60/person return)
offers postcard good looks and a path that
runs inland to Chuao town. Some of the
world's best cacao is grown here. If you
don't visit, you can still stock up on their
fantastic chocolate from Sabor A Cacao
(see p.881) in Puerto Colombia. Still
farther east is equally nice Playa Cepe
(BsF80/person return), which is generally
the least crowded.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The park's beaches can be accessed
from Choroní (see below) and Ocumare (see p.881). Don't
show up to the Estación Biológica unannounced, as it's
likely that you'll find the gates locked and the building
unoccupied. You need permission from Inparques in
Maracay ( T 0243 889 3242) to walk the trails and from
the university ( T 0412 871 7319) to stay overnight,
although you're better off getting in touch with Oskar
Padilla (see below).
Tour operators Oskar Padilla, a helpful, experienced and
English-speaking guide ( T 0412 892 5308, E oskarpadilla
@hotmail.com) offers hiking and birdwatching around
Rancho Grande, and will happily arrange permits for you.
Casa Luna Espinoza in Choroní (see p.880) can also arrange
stays and activities at the research centre.

11

PUERTO COLOMBIA

ACCOMMODATION
Casa Luna Espinoza
Hostal Colonial
Habitaciones Mayitas
Posada Los Guanches

CARIBBEAN SEA

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3
1
4

CHORONÍ
Choroní actually consists of two parts:
the colonial town of CHORONÍ , notable
for its winding streets and colourful
houses, but otherwise dull; and PUERTO
COLOMBIA , a beach town 2km away
where the action is concentrated. Puerto
Colombia's beating heart is its lively
malecón (seafront promenade) where the
fishing boats dock, revellers congregate
and on weekends it's common to see
tambores , a coastal tradition of African
drum-playing, singing and dancing.

Playa
Grande

Police
station

Mirador
del Cristo

lancha

Pharmacy

Coop.
Alcatours

Pc Accíon

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he Mirador de Cristo on the eastern
headland (named Papelón , or Sugar Loaf )
offers a view over the tiny town and
stunning relief surrounding it. A path
weaves towards it from the Playa Grande
side of the bridge.
The one beach easily reached on foot is
Playa Grande , a sheltered bay of jungled
hills and a curving sandbar, which
consequently attracts the most visitors.
About the same distance to the west, but
harder to reach (and thus less crowded),
Playa El Diario is a 45-minute walk from
the village. To get here from the midpoint

PUERTO
COLOMBIA

EATING & DRINKING
Bar La Playa
Brisas del Mar
Coco Café Cacao
Jalio
Oasis
Pescaíto
Restaurant Araguaneyes

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3
5
4
7
1
6

Bus Terminal

0 100

metres

Playa El Diario (1.5km)