Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 869

Ì Luncheria Doña Agapita Av Sur 13 south of Plaza
la Candelaria; map p.867. If you've not eaten a cachapa
(sweet-meal pancake folded over a thick slab of cheese),
this is the place to have your first. Grab a seat, enjoy the
banter between the staff and their patrons, and watch
your meal cooked on the hot plate at the entrance. BsF35
for a cachapa con queso de mano . Mon-Sat 7am-8pm.

Chinese food, though this is usually lower down the list of
priorities. Closes 11pm.
Luna Llena Arepa Factory 2da Transversal, at 2da Av
Los Palos Grandes T 0212 285 1125; map p.871. They've
fixed what isn't broken with artesanal, slim or wholemeal
arepa options, although the staff admit nothing beats the
original. The fillings menu is extensive (BsF26-45), while
a yummy local favourite is the capresa con queso planchado
(BsF42), a caprese salad with grilled cheese. Bag a seat
first and order at the counter. 8am-9pm Mon-Thurs, until
1pm Fri-Sun.
Menta y Canela Av Avila Sur next to La Floresta (see
p.872) T 0212 261 6571; map p.871. The secret garden
feel of this boho-chic deli, a good breakfast option for
those staying in the area, is a welcome respite from the
busy road without. Daily specials (from BsF75) follow a
Mediterranean regimen while cooked breakfasts and
custom omelettes (all BsF55) are popular throughout the
day. Daily 7am-8pm.
Sette Pizza 4a Av between 2da & 3ra Transversals, Los
Palos Grandes T 0212 283 6608; map p.871. Down a side
street, this over-staffed pizza joint stone-bakes tasty
artisan pizzas to compensate for underwhelming service.
The pasta menu operates on a “choose your shape, choose
your sauce” basis. Individual pizza from BsF79, family-size
from BsF196, pasta dishes from BsF85. There's live music
from Thurs-Sat with a BsF40 cover charge. Daily 2pm-
midnight.

SABANA GRANDE
Ì Arepería 24 Horas Av Casanova, at Av Las Acacias
T 0212 793 7961; map p.869. Open 24hr for when you
need your arepa fix, this open-fronted diner brims with
colourful characters. Look behind the glass counters to
select your fillings, which include octopus, tuna and roast
pork (BsF35-45). For more leisurely dining, the table
service area has slick waiters and sports channels rolling on
the numerous TVs, although the other patrons are far more
interesting. Also does excellent batidos from BsF18. 24hr.
Cafetería Solano López Av Francisco Solano López,
across from Tasca Pullman T 0212 761 6417; map p.869.
Wobbly fans and pumpkins on the bar; this place is as
caraqueño as they come. The coffee is strong and a
surprisingly extensive menu includes pabellón criollo
(BsF60), which the regulars vouch for as the definitive.
The blue-shirted staff and their patrons welcome gringos
with quizzical but not unfriendly looks. Mon-Sat
6.30am-6.30pm, Sun 7am-2pm.
Gran Café Bulevar de Sabana Grande, at C Pascual
Navarro T 0212 763 6792; map p.869. Grand it ain't,
but this popular lunch destination serves potent coffee,
sandwiches (around BsF40 with fries), ice cream, pastries
and more. Mon-Sat 7am-6pm, Sun 7am-3pm.
El Rincón Gallego Av Francisco Solano López, at C Los
Manguitos T 0212 762 8307; map p.869. The unstoppably
chatty owner Lola emigrated from Spain over fifty years
ago and is still dishing out traditional favourites from
her homeland as well as friendly security advice. A cosy
place that stays open until the early hours if the punters
are having fun. Paella BsF130 per person. Mon-Sat
noon-late.
Sabas Nieves C Pascual Navarro T 0212 763 6712; map
p.869. On a backstreet, in what looks like your grandma's
sitting room, the vegetarian health-conscious menu here
alternates daily. Look for the green security bars rather
than a sign and squeeze into a seat beside the super-
friendly regulars. A BsF40 lunch ticket buys you a fresh
juice and as much food as you can load onto your plate.
Takeaway for BsF5 extra. Mon-Sat noon-3.30pm.

11

EL HATILLO
Dulces Criollos C La Paz on Plaza Bolívar T 0212 961
3198. Come in for a gawp at the sweets and pastries that
run three rows deep at this rustically contemporary (or
contemporarily rustic) cake shop. A slice of cake is BsF25
and the coffee is excellent. Scoff it down at a bar stool or
enjoy it outside in the leafy Plaza Bolívar. Daily 8am-11pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Caracas has bars and clubs for virtually anyone, and at
any time - many establishments stay open until the last
patron leaves. Being a large and cosmopolitan city, it also
has a decent selection of gay and lesbian nightspots.
Check W rumbacaracas.com for a variety of club and event
listings. As most streets empty out after dark, especially in
the western districts, it's wise to take taxis to and from
your destination.

SABANA GRANDE
El Maní Es Así C El Cristo; map p.869. This self-proclaimed
“temple of salsa” is a Caracas legend where they relish
gringos getting involved. Thurs to Sat sees live bands fill
the wide dancefloor from 9pm while the enormous sound
system thumps out salsa the rest of the time. Tues-Sat
7pm-3am; arrive early for occasional salsa lessons.

ALTAMIRA/LOS PALOS GRANDES
Chef Woo 1ra Av above Av Francisco de Miranda, Los Palos
Grandes; map p.871. Students and businessmen alike
flock to this Chinese restaurant (and neighbouring Lai Cen )
for cheap beers, lively conversation and sometimes even