Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 868

Altamira metro station, the rates are a barga in given the
high-end nature of accommodation in the area. BsF360
La Floresta Av Ávila Sur below Plaza Altamira T 0212
263 1955, W hotellafloresta.com; map p.871. Perfectly
decent rooms all have a/c, en suite and wi-fi, while some
have balconies. Don't expect quality service; the shifty and
disinterested staff can be comicall y rude. Breakfast in the
hotel restaurant included. BsF590

SABANA GRANDE
Cristál Pasaje Asunción, at Bulevar Sabana Grande
T 0212 761 9131; map p.869. A good option for sampling
the Caracas nightlife as the location on a gra ti-strewn
side street is a popular and friendly spot with numerous
bars, although you should avoid it if getting an early night
is a higher priority. Expect adequ ate serv ice and clean
rooms, all with a/c, en suite and TV. BsF290
Nuestro Hotel C El Colegio, at Av Casanova T 0212 761
5431; map p.869. The cheapest accommodation in town,
the starkly basic rooms in this security-conscious place are
pretty grimy, although you can guarantee clean sheets and
towels. The reception doubles up as a sort of shop - although
anyone other than guests must make their purchases from
the other side of the barred entrance. Some of the staff speak
English and are good sources of info rmation , and there is
wi-fi. Do not venture downhill on foot. BsF150
Nueva Esparta Av Los Manguitos between Libertador
& Solano T 0212 761 5732; map p.869. The ostentatious
entrance sets this pristine lodging back from a bustling
side street. Rooms are all en suite, with a/c and TV, but
otherwise basic. The hotel also has a d ecent pizzeria
opposite the tiny reception booth. BsF300

EATING
In addition to established cafés and restaurants, there is
no shortage of street vendors hawking burgers and hot
dogs for around BsF30. Street food, including fresh fruit
juice, is generally safe when prepared in front of you. See
“Shopping” (p.875) for good places to buy picnic supplies.

11

EL CENTRO/PARQUE CENTRAL
Café de Sacro Inside Museo Sacro; map p.867. A haven
of serenity on the raucous Plaza Bolívar. Grab a coffee and
cake and sit back to admire the pretty surroundings. You'll
have to pay the BsF15 entry fee whether you're interested
in the art gallery or not, although the peace and quiet is
well worth it. Mains are more gourmet, and start from
BsF100. Mon-Fri noon-3.30pm.
La Cocina de Francy Av Este 2, at Sur 11 T 0212 576
9849; map p.867. This corner restaurant employs stylish
design and smartly dressed staff who take pride in their
work. The menu focuses on Venezuelan fare while the
chefs focus on doing the basics well. The pabellón criollo
(BsF105) is an excellent introduction to the national dish
if you've not sampled it yet. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.

ALTAMIRA
Caracas's business district, Altamira is far safer to walk
around after dark than other areas of the city.
Ì Altamira Av José Félix Sosa, at Av Altamira Sur T 0212
267 4255; map p.871. Secure, stylish and relaxed, this friendly
place on a quiet side street has homely rooms with hot
showers, a/c, TV and wi-fi throughout. A short walk from

SAFETY IN CARACAS
While Caracas is not as dangerous as its dreadful international reputation would have you
believe, crime rates in the capital are the country's highest and robberies are not uncommon.
Simple common sense is the best policy: don't carry around excessive cash or anything you
can't afford to lose. Don't venture up deserted side streets and stick to where there are crowds
after dark, especially in and around El Centro and Sabana Grande. Dress down; wearing overtly
touristy clothes will earn you odd looks even from those who don't pose a threat, though
grimy backpacker-chic is best saved for towns more accustomed to budget travellers. Change
money calmly, in a secure place, and only once you've had a chance to gauge current paralelo
rates (see p.858). Don't change money in the street; you'll be an easy target for passing
opportunists and could also get landed with fake notes.
While not as overtly aggressive as in previous years, the Caracas police are a constant
presence. Street-level o cers are usually very helpful, while the bored staff manning the red or
blue police gazebos in pedestrianized areas (particularly common in Sabana Grande) are best
avoided; giving them a wide berth is usually enough to avoid unwanted interaction. Spot
searches are rare, but if you are unlucky enough to be pulled into a gazebo for an inspection,
insist that you unpack your things yourself, one item at a time - things are less likely to go
missing if you don't allow yourself to be rushed. Never offer bribes. If you are asked to pay
a fine, always ask for the o cial paperwork.
All that said, there is no reason for paranoia; Caracas is one of South America's friendlier
capital cities; exercise your common sense, don't take unnecessary risks, stay alert to your
surroundings at all times and you're likely to have an incident-free stay.