Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 843

visiting for its great views of the city
and surrounding hills, as well as its
imposing 10m-high concrete statue of
the liberator Artigas on his horse; said
to be one of the largest equine statues in
the world. Avenida Varela goes all the
way to Cerro Artigas from central Minas
- around a 45-minute walk - or a taxi
costs UR$100.

from Minas to Villa Serrana (9am &
5.30pm on Tues & Thurs, returning
shortly after that; 30min), but if you're
staying there you'll probably be able
to arrange a lift with your hosts. Taxis
cost UR$1000.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
Bus Intercity and local buses arrive and depart from
the Terminal de Omnibuses ( T 44423178), three blocks
west of Plaza Libertad on Treinta y Tres between Claudio
Williman and Sarandí.
Destinations Montevideo (hourly; 1hr 40min-2hr 30min);
Punta del Este (4-7 daily; 2hr); Villa Serrana (4 weekly;
30min).
Taxi 24hr service from the Plaza Libertad ( T 099844159).
Set prices to surrounding areas.
Tourist information At the bus station (daily 8am-
7pm; T 44429796, W www.minascity.com/turismo &
W lavalleja.gub.uy).

10

Parque del Salto Penitente
At the heart of this private natural reserve
is a delicate waterfall, the eponymous
Salto del Penitente , which falls some
60m before following its course. Here
there is a restaurant (open daily for
lunch), precariously cantilevered off the
hillside over the falls, as well as a hostel
and terrace affording graceful views across
the park, all under the same management
( T 44403096, W saltodelpenitente.com).
Sleeping is in shared wood cabins
(UR$300/400 with/without linen),
or you can camp, and there's a rustic
common room with an open fire. For
those who decide to stay, activities
include horseriding, rock climbing,
zip-wiring and abseiling (all UR$150-
200), as well as hiking and birdwatching.
It's tricky to get to without a car, but the
management can collect you from Minas
or a taxi is around UR$800.

ACCOMMODATION
It's worth booking ahead; accommodation is limited and
fills up fast, especially during Minas' large festivals over
nine days in October and on April 9.
Camping Arequita 10km north of town on Ruta
12 T 44402503, W www.lavalleja.gub.uy/web/lavalleja
/campingarequita. Set in pleasant grounds at the foot of
Cerro Verdún (a grand rocky peak with caves to explore),
each plot has electricity and a barbecue. Horseriding can
be arranged, but there's no internet. 12km from town;
buses fr om Minas run Dec-Feb. Self-cate ring cabins
UR$900 , min i-cabins (beds only) UR$350 , camping/
person UR$90
Posada Verdún Dr. Washington Beltrán 715 T 44424563,
W hotelposadaverdun.com. The same family has run this
posada, the best-value place in town, for more than two
decades. The rooms are clean with private bathrooms and TV;
there's als o a recom mended restaurant. Doubles (includes
breakfast) UR$1000
Ì Villa Serrana B&B The green thatched house in Villa
Serrana T 098280811, W villaserrananp.com. Owned by the
exuberant Zen, who speaks fluent English, the house has
three spacious rooms and is decorated with flea-market finds
and bright colours. There is also an adjacent self-catering
bungalow for groups. Horseriding and other day-trips in
the country can be arranged. B reakfast in cluded and other
meals can be provided. Doubles UR$1400 (chea per without
breakfast), bungalow (up to 6 people) UR$2000

Villa Serrana
With zero amenities, other than a couple
of places to stay, it's hard to even award
Villa Serrana village status; it's more a
cluster of houses 25km from Minas.
However, its location is Elysian, perching
on top of a horseshoe string of hills
around a lake, with splendid walking,
fishing and horseriding opportunities
- not to mention magical sunsets. Its
other major attraction is a remarkable
historic hotel, the Ventorrillo de la Buena
Vista ( T 44402109, W ventorrillodela
buenavista.com.uy), designed by
Uruguayan architect Julio Vilamajó,
which attracts architecture fans from
across the world. Built in 1946, its
brilliance lies in its synthesis with its
surroundings, and it has been tastefully
restored to run as a splendid inn (see
p.848). There are just four buses a week

EATING
Nightlife is limited to drinking in restaurants.
Ì Confitería Irisarri Treinta y Tres 618, Plaza Libertad
W confiteriairisarri.com.uy. A family business originating