Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Lobo daily at 11am and again at 3pm (UR$100 in Spanish

or UR$150 in English with prior reservation; T 099379167).

cheeses, charcuterie and preserves attractively served on

platters for sharing (as a main for two UR$490). Closed Wed.

Ì Lentas Maravillas Santa Rita 61. If you've got

an afternoon to relax you won't find a cosier way to do it

than perusing owner Maggie's English-language books in

front of the fire or on the riverside deck. Inventive baked

goods, gourmet sandwiches (UR$280) and hot drinks.

Daily noon-8pm, weekends only April-Nov.

Ì Mi Carrito Lavalleja between Rivadivia and

Dr. D. Fonseca. There is nowhere locals rave about for

budget food more than this food truck selling the best

bad food you'll ever eat. Try the epic milanesa for two

with every topping imaginable (UR$170), or the pancho

wrapped in bacon with mozzarella (UR$60). Daily

11.30am-4pm & 8pm-1am except Sun (lunch only).

Viejo Barrio Vasconcellos 169. This otherwise decent

Italian restaurant serves the best veal milanesas (like a

schnitzel) this side of Vienna, including one stuffed with

ham and cheese (UR$240). Thurs-Mon 11am-midnight,

Tues & Wed 11am-4pm.

ACCOMMODATION

The standard of budget accommodation in Colonia is dire

and prices are higher than elsewhere. On the other hand,

most are very central, but it's worth investigating the out-

of-town estancia El Galope (see box, p.832). Breakfast is

included unless otherwise stated.

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HOSTELS

Ì Sur Rivadavia 448, at Mendez T 45220553, W surhostel

.com. The lovely lads who run this and Pocitos Hostel in

Montevideo have made it their mission to spread buena

onda (“good vibes”) among their guests, and the staff are

always on hand to soci alize and g ive a local perspective.

Dorms UR$340 , doubles UR$1000

El Viajero Hostel & Suites/B&B Posada W. Barbot 164

T 45222683; Florida 269 T 45228645, W elviajerohostels

.com. Success has made this Uruguayan chain of HI hostels

feel a little formulaic and institutional, but it is always

a reliable choice. In Colonia, there is a hostel with some

“suites” (private rooms), and around the corner is a “B&B

Posada” offering very nice priva te rooms with T V and DVDs ,

some with river views. D orms UR$400 , suites UR$1600 ,

B&B Posada doubles from UR$1900

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Matamala Ituzaíngo 222. A surprisingly sophisticated

bar which would be rather more at home in Brooklyn,

with stylish furniture, chilled alternative music, Belgian

bottled beers and a refined liquor collection (UR$100 for

a generous measure). Thurs-Sat from 9pm.

Tr3s Cu4tro Alberto Mendez 295, W trescuarto.com. Their

website says it all: “one building, two courtyards, three

dancefloors, four bars, steaming hot”. A great Uruguayan

“ boliche ” (bar/nightclub), good for just a few drinks, or for

staying up all night. There is an entry fee (UR$50-100), but

once you get in, food and drinks are reasonably priced.

There's often live music too. Fri & Sat from 11pm.

HOTELS

The hotels below provide rooms with TV, private bathrooms

and a free breakfast. For a comprehensive list of hotels and

hostels by star rating, try W hotelesencolonia.com.

Ì El Capullo 18 de Julio 219 T 45230135, W elcapullo

.com. Run by a British-American couple, this boutique

hotel is stylish yet cosy, with a gorgeous garden and a

great breakfast buffet. At the pricier end of budget, but

head and shoulders above other places which cha rge only

a couple of hundred pesos less. Doubles UR$2200

Rivera Rivera 131 T 45220807, W hotelrivera.com.uy.

A comfy hotel with an Alpine feel, convenient ly located a

block from the bus terminal and port. Doubles UR$1700

SHOPPING

The Barrio Histórico is littered with fashionable, pricey

boutiques selling locally made as well as more generic

leather goods, but the best deals for handicrafts are to be

found either at the fería or artisans' market (Dr. Daniel

Fosalba; daily 10am-6pm).

El Abrazo Flores 272. A commendable little shop selling

Uruguay-specific books, including English translations of

national authors Bennedetti and Galeano, music, and

locally made gifts and clothes.

Colonia Shopping Roosevelt 458, W coloniashopping

.com.uy. A brand-new mall with all the expected facilities,

including a cinema.

EATING

Although the restaurants in the Barrio Histórico are pricey,

the quality on the whole is excellent and the ambience is

hard to beat. Restaurant opening hours are 11am-midnight

unless otherwise noted. Contact details are given where

booking is recommended.

La Bodeguita Del Comercio 167. Buzzing, stylish place

whose three terraces overlooking the river get crowded with

people who've heard rumours of the best pizzas in town

(UR$110). Tues-Sun from 8pm; Sun also 12.30-3.30pm.

Buen Suspiro C de los Suspiros 90 T 45226160. On the

most photographed street in Uruguay, only recognizable by

a discreet sign, this foodie heaven specializes in fine wines,