Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 838

milongas (community tango dances) every week. Tues-
Sat from 9pm; tango classes Wed 8pm.

W mercadodelosartesanos.com.uy. Three excellent indoor
artisan markets where you can find original, high-quality
souveneirs.
La Pasionaria Reconquista 587 W lapasionaria.com.uy.
A sophisticated multipurpose art complex housing a
design store, boutique clothing shop, small gallery, and
the excellent café Doméstico (see p.841).

LIVE MUSIC AND CULTURE
Ì La Conjura Tristán Narvaja 1634, at Uruguay
T 24021245. A secondhand bookstore selling locally
made clothes with a cheap café (daily noon-8pm;
menú del día UR$70), also with live Candombe , tango and
Afro-Uruguayan beats (Thurs-Sat from 10.30pm & Sun
lunchtime).
Joven Tango Mercado de la Abundancia, San José 1312
W joventango.org. If you are a tango enthusiast, head
to the food court of this market (see below), which
is converted into a dancefloor for classes followed by
dancing most nights of the week.
Teatro Solís T 219503323, W teatrosolis.org.uy.
Uruguayans are very cultured and justly proud of their
historic theatre. Shows the best of Uruguayan opera, music
and theatre at subsidized prices. Tickets start at around
UR$150.
Teatro de Verano Rambla Wilson, at Cachón T 2712
4972, W teatrodeverano.org.uy. For some of the biggest
moments during Carnaval and to see international music
stars, try this big outdoor amphitheatre in Parque Rodó.

10

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange You'll find ATMs in Tres Cruces
Terminal, and branches of all the major banks along Av 18
de Julio in the centre, or at the World Trade Centre in
Pocitos. Exchange rate, by law, is the same everywhere, so
change your money wherever you see casas de cambio.
Embassies and consulates Argentina, Cuareim 1470-
11 T 29028166; Australia, Cerro Largo 1000 T 29010743;
Brazil, Blvr Artigas 1328 T 27072003; Canada, Plaza Inde-
pendencia 749, o ce number 102 T 29022030; South
Africa, Dr. Gabriel Otero 6337 T 26017131; UK, Marco Bruto
1073 T 26223630; US, Lauro Muller 1776 T 217702000.
Hospital Hospital Britanico, near the Tres Cruces Bus
Station on Italia 2400 ( T 24871020), offers good private
healthcare.
Internet and phone Phone Box, Av 18 de Julio, at
Andes, is open 24hr.
Laundry Most of the hostels have cheap laundry services
available. There are no self-service laundrettes but La
Lavanderia, at Andes 1333, charges UR$100 to wash and
dry a backpack full of clothes.
Left luggage There is 24hr left-luggage at Tres Cruces
bus terminal (UR$120/24hr). Most hostels will let you
store things for free.
Pharmacies 24hr pharmacy just off Plaza Independencia
at 843 Av 18 de Julio.
Post o ce Misiones 1328 (Ciudad Vieja), at Ejido,
between San José and Soriano (central).
Tourist Police Uruguay 1667, at Minas ( T 08008226).
Look out for the police o cers in high-visibility vests.
Supermarket Chain Ta-Ta has a central store at 880 Av 18
de Julio (daily 9am-10pm).

CINEMAS
Most films are shown in their original language with
Spanish subtitles. You can find all the theatres in the
country (there aren't many) listed at W cartelera.com.uy
under “Cine por sala”. Tickets cost UR$120-180. There are
small movie theatres in the centre, but the best choice
of films is at Casablanca (21 de Septiembre 2838, at
Ellauri T 27123795) in Punta Carretas, and the enormous
Movicenter in Montevideo Shopping (Luis Alberto de
Herrera 1290 T 29003900, W movie.com.uy) in Pocitos.

SHOPPING
Av 18 de Julio is Montevideo's main commercial street,
while there are some large malls located in the richer
neighbourhoods of Pocitos and Punta Carretas.
Bookshop Central shops at Sarandí 640 and at 18 de Julio
1296 with Yaguarón (shops 4-5). See W bookshop.com.uy
for locations (“surcursales”). Stocks a good range of
English-language novels.
Esencia Uruguay Sarandí 359. If you can't get out
to the bodegas in the countryside, sampling Uruguay's
fine wine selection at this pleasant shop may well be
the next best thing.
Manos del Uruguay San José 1111. The discount store
of the international brand with a range of high-quality
woollen clothes, all of which are handmade in Uruguay.
Mercado de los Artesanos Mercado de la Abundancia,
San José 1312; Mercado Plaza, Plaza Cagancha;
Espacio Cultural Rafael Barradas, Pérez Castellano 1542,

Western Uruguay
Although Western Uruguay in general
has often been neglected by visitors
heading for the eastern beaches, Colonia
del Sacramento , just one hour away from
Buenos Aires, is the most common point
of entry for tourists - especially Argentine
day-trippers - as well as being one of the
most beautiful and intriguing towns on
the whole continent.