Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 831

While major credit cards are widely
accepted, and ATMs are common in cities
(look out for the Banred ATMs which
accept international cards), you should
always carry a relatively large supply of
cash for places where this is not the case.
This applies especially to the beach villages
of Eastern Uruguay, such as Punta del
Diablo, which don't have ATMs. ATMs
charge around UR$85 per withdrawal.

CARNAVAL
You will not truly understand the lure
of Montevideo unless you experience
Carnaval . It's a three-month celebration
of Uruguayan culture with parades,
neighbourhood stages known as
tablados which host murgas (street
bands where singing groups are
accompanied by wild drumming
- candombe - originating in the African
rhythms brought over by slaves), plays,
parodists and comedians, all wildly
dressed and there to entertain. The
spectacular opening and closing
parades take place on Avenida 18 de
Julio and many of the biggest events
are held at the Teatro de Verano
(see p.842). If you know you'll be in
Montevideo during Carnaval, email the
tourist o ce to find out key dates.

10

OPENING HOURS AND HOLIDAYS
Most shops and post o ces open on
weekdays from 8am until noon, before
closing for lunch, reopening around 4pm
until 7 or 8pm. Most businesses work at
least a half-day on Saturday, but most
close on Sundays. Banks are usually open
Monday to Friday 1 to 5pm and closed at
weekends. The exception to this is many
shops in Montevideo, the main coastal
tourist centres, and supermarkets in
general; the latter are often open as late as
11pm during the week.
Most museums and historic monuments
are open daily, though times vary,
and tend to close once a week for
maintenance (check with each attraction
when theirs is). Public holidays are:
January 1, January 6, Good Friday, Easter
Monday, April 1, May 1, May 18, June
19, July 18, August 25, October 12,
November 2, December 25.

Far more relaxed, but less affluent
than its Argentine neighbour across
the river, the Uruguayan capital has
nevertheless seen an economic
improvement in recent years, and wisely
invested in its culture, infrastructure
and beaches. Montevideo may appear
humble at first, but this is a seriously
cool, confident city.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Montevideo can sometimes be
overshadowed by its snazzier neighbour
Buenos Aires, but this, Uruguayans will
tell you, is the true home of the tango ,
with plenty of free classes and milongas
- bars playing traditional music - not to
mention the best place to experience
South America's longest Carnaval season
(see box above). There are tons of quirky
museums , especially in the charming
Ciudad Vieja and east to the Centro ,
based around Avenida 18 de Julio.
Close to here, Calle Tristan Narvaja is
filled with independent bookshops and
cultural spaces, and holds a huge weekly
flea market (see p.838). You may well
stay in Barrio Sur - a traditionally
Afro-Uruguayan neighbourhood where
candombe drumming was cultivated -
or chic and affluent areas Punta Carretas
or Pocitos , where you'll find some of the
best food and nightlife.

Montevideo
With a population of around 1.6 million,
over fifteen times larger than the second
city of Paysandú, Montevideo is
Uruguay's political, economic and
transport hub. Founded in 1726 as a
fortress against Portuguese encroachment
on the northern shore of the Río de la
Plata , it had an excellent trading position
and, following a turbulent and often
violent early history, its growth was rapid.
The nineteenth century saw mass
immigration from Europe - mostly Italy
and Spain - that has resulted in a vibrant
mix of architectural styles and a
cosmopolitan atmosphere.