Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 828

ESTANCIAS TURÍSTICAS
No visit to the interior of the country would be complete without a stay or at least a daytime
visit to an estancia - a working ranch - but although staying overnight can be magical, the
experience does not come cheap and there is a huge variation in authenticity; note that
estancias turísticas are essentially rural hotels (you can download a comprehensive list at
W turismo.gub.uy/informacion-turistica/folletos-para-descargar).
If you can't afford to stay overnight, most will arrange (much cheaper) day stays which will
include horseriding, farm activities and a meal or two. The following are a couple of suggestions
and demonstrate the huge variety you can choose from:
El Galope 50km from Colonia near Colonia Suiza,
W elgalope.com.uy. One of the few estancias run with
backpackers in mind, owners Miguel and Mónica (who
speak English) aim to provide “a holiday from your
holiday”, offering R'n'R, Uruguayan style. With horse-
riding, a sauna and great food all priced separately, you
can choose how much or how lit tle you do (meal s US$8-
12, horseriding US$35). Dorms US$25 , doubles US$70
Guardia del Monte Ruta 9, Km261.5, W guardia
delmonte.com. If you can shell out for a night at a

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traditional estancia , none offers a better location
(overlooking Laguna de Castillos) or more rugged
elegance than this one. The cosy farmhouse, with
fantastic birdwatching and horseriding opportunities,
is a taxi ride from Castillos (around UR$300), 10km
down a dirt track. English is spoken, and while it is
relatively expensive, you'll get an incomparable taste
of rural Uruguay. Closed May-Sept. Full board with
all activiti es per p erson (less if B&B only, or without
activities) US$160

centre and old town. In low season you
can find rental cars for as little as UR$35
per day (all the major international car
rental companies have offices in Uruguay),
but petrol costs are equivalent to European
prices. Fines for speeding are extortionate
(from US$500), so be sure to adhere to
the national speed limits of 45km/hr in
inner cities and 90km/hr on the main
roads between towns. Taxis tend to be safe
as long as they're licensed, but look out for
remises (minicabs), which sometimes offer
better rates for fixed distances as they are
booked in advance - ask at your hostel for
reliable companies.

hotels for those on a budget. Off the
main tourist routes, however, places to
stay can be few and far between and it's
also worth checking if your trip coincides
with a public holiday as accommodation
can book up fast; tourist information
offices are usually happy to help find
accommodation. During the summer
holidays from December to February it's
necessary to book ahead, and prices soar,
so that a dorm bed can be as expensive as
sharing a double room in a basic hotel.
Note that hotels and hostels often have
a set dollar exchange rate, rather than
going by the daily rate, which can mean
you'll be slightly better off paying in
dollars than pesos.

BY BIKE
With a predominantly flat landscape
and good-quality roads, Uruguay is
a tempting place for cyclists.
Accommodation is never more than
50km apart along the coast (although in
the interior and north facilities are much
more sparse) and there are repair shops in
many cities. As with elsewhere in South
America, however, you must beware of
the recklessness of local drivers.

FOOD AND DRINK
Uruguay may not provide the most
cosmopolitan of culinary experiences,
but if you enjoy beef or most kinds of
seafood , you will not go hungry.
Uruguayan steakhouses ( parrillas ) serve
steaks that are larger and (as the locals
insist) more tender than their Argentine
counterparts, with the most popular
cuts being the ribs ( asado de tira ) and
tenderloin ( bife de chorizo ).
The best dining option for vegetarians
tends to be the ubiquitous pizza and

ACCOMMODATION
Uruguay's coastal towns are full of youth
hostels and other towns will offer basic