Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
your SERNANP permit (see below) first, as well as a guide.
It's significantly cheaper and easier to get in touch with
local guides (see below) and go with an organized tour.
From the Río Madre de Dios dock you can hire private boats
to take you to the Bolivian border, although this is an
expensive option (S500; 6hr).
machine and kitchen for guests' use. Wi-fi and breakfast
are included. The friendly and help ful owner org aniz es all
manner of jungle tours. Hammocks S20 , doubles S70
Tarantula Hostel Av Aeropuerto s/n T 082 632 334,
W tarantulahostel.jimdo.com. Located at just 500m from
the airport, Tarantula is set on a verdant plot of land, home
to plenty of wildlife including monkeys and macaws.
Those on a tight budget can camp in the garden (tents
provided) or snooze in one of the hammocks. Guests have
access to the barbecue, kitchen and large pool. Free wi-fi
and airport pic k-up. Br eakfas t included. Camping S20 ,
hammocks S15 , doubles S100
Tres Fronteras Jr. Arequipa 357 T 082 300 011. The
nineteen rooms, all with private bath and cable TV, are set
over two floors; all have interior windo ws, which give the
place a slightly institutional feel. Wi-fi. S80
GETTING AROUND
By mototaxi and motorbike The quickest way of
getting around town is to hail a mototaxi (S2 in-town flat
rate, but check before getting on) or passenger-carrying
motorbikes (S1 flat rate). If you have a lot of ground to
cover in town, try one of the places along Prada between
Puno and Velarde that rent mopeds for around S5/hr (no
deposit, but passports and driving licences required),
though this option might be a little intimidating for some,
given the local driving standards. Make sure there's ample
petrol in the tank.
EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Ì Burgos's Leon Velarde 127. This open-fronted
restaurant with woven prickly-pear lamps and dangling
clay pots serves a range of regional and creole dishes;
there's a good selection of vegetarian options (S8-14).
Try the palta rellena con palmito (avocado stuffed with
palm hearts; S13). Mains S20-28. There's another branch
on Billinghurst. Daily 10am-11.30pm.
El Califa Jr. Piura 266. This Puerto Maldonado favourite
has been going strong for over three decades. It serves all
manner of meats (including exotic ones from the jungle -
make sure to check which are legal), as well as ceviche . The
fresh juices are made with fruits from the back garden.
Mains S17-20. Daily 9am-5pm.
Ceviche 69 2 de Mayo, at Madre de Dios. Set on two
floors, Ceviche 69 is part of a wider chain with a/c interiors,
serving good ceviche (S22-26) and plenty of fish and
seafood mains (S20-29). Daily 10am-10pm.
Heladería Gustitos del Cura Velarde 474. Run by a
Swiss priest, the profits at this pleasant café help fund
a local orphanage. Friendly staff serve a selection of
homemade ice creams (S2/scoop) in seventeen exotic
fruit flavours, as well as delicious cakes (S5). Free wi-fi.
Daily 8am-11pm.
Pizzería El Hornito Carrión 392. This rustic pizzeria with
red brick walls and wooden tables serves wood-fired
pizzas, which come in various sizes (from S16.50). There's
another larger branch on the Plaza de Armas. Daily
6pm-midnight.
Toe On the western side of Plaza de Armas. Named
after an ingredient of the hallucinogenic jungle vine
ayahuasca , Toe is a lively bar attracting partygoers before
they head for a big night out to club Witite up the road.
Cocktails S10-15, beers S7. Mon-Fri 4pm-3am, Sat-Sun
11am-3am.
Witite Velarde 151. This popular club packs with twenty-
somethings for some pop, rock and salsa tunes on Fri & Sat
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information There's a small tourist information
kiosk at the airport which meets oncoming flights;
they have limited information on jungle lodges in the
area. The inconveniently located Dircetur o ce (Mon-Fri
7am-1pm & 2-4pm; T 082 571 164) on Fonavi, at San
Martín, a 5min ride from the Plaza de Armas, stocks very
basic information on Puerto Maldonado's attractions. The
SERNANP o ce at Av 28 de Julio, 8th block ( T 082 573
278), has handouts on the nearby national park and
reserve; it collects entrance fees (S30) for a permit, for
those planning on going independently.
Tour operators Tambopata Hostel ( T 082 574 201), run
by a former Rainforest Expedition guide, offers authentic
backpacker jungle tours between one and five days and
popular trips to Lago Sandoval and Lago Valencia, as well
as ayahuasca ceremonies at the indigenous community of
Infierno. Anaconda Lodge organizes kayak tours and trips
to Sadoval Lake, Tambopata and Madre de Dios. Tarantula
Hostel (see below) also offers a range of tours in the area.
ACCOMMODATION
Ì Anaconda Lodge 600m away from the airport,
along Av Aeropuerto s/n T 082 792 726, W anaconda
junglelodge.com. Occupying an area of just under four
acres, this Swiss-Thai lodge is home to rustic bungalows
surrounded by a verdant tropical garden. Monkeys, sloths,
porcupines, agoutis and armadillos - to name a few -
roam the premises and there's a little pool at the back to
cool off. The r estaurant offers superb Thai food. Breakfast
included. S80
Tambopata Hostel 26 de Diciembre 234 T 082 574 201,
W tambopatahostel.com. Tambopata has rooms set around
an interior courtyard, while those on a tighter budget can
kip in the hammocks at the back (S20). There's a washing
 
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