Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 76

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Iberá offer prime wildlife-spotting
opportunities. The river-hugging,
siesta-loving city of Corrientes is
increasingly opening itself up to tourism,
while Argentina's third-largest city (and
the birthplace of Che Guevara), Rosario ,
in Santa Fe Province, has some handsome
historic buildings, arresting monuments
and a lively weekend party atmosphere.
The star of Entre Ríos Province is the
Parque Nacional El Palmar , with its forest
of towering yatay palms, an easy day-trip
from the resort town of Colón .
If you have a problem with heat and
humidity, steer clear of this region between
December and March, when temperatures
in the far north often creep above 40°C.

Plaza 25 de Mayo and around
The tree-lined Plaza 25 de Mayo lies three
blocks west of the river. Here, at the heart
of the city, you'll find some of the city's
grandest buildings, including the late
nineteenth-century Catedral de Rosario
(daily 9am-12.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm;
free), with its striking Italianate marble
altar. On the southern side, the Museo
Municipal de Arte Decorativo Firma y
Odilio Estévez (Tues-Fri 3-8pm, Sat &
Sun 10am-8pm; free; T 0341 480 2547)
houses the lavish art collection of the
Estévez family, Galician immigrants who
struck it big cultivating mate . Pieces
include a Goya painting, a Flemish
tapestry and Greek sculptures.

Monumento a la Bandera
Rising just east of the plaza, the
Monumento a la Bandera (Monument to
the Flag) is Rosario's most eye-catching
landmark. A stark piece of nationalistic
architecture, it marks the place where,
in 1812, General Belgrano first raised
the Argentine flag. Take the lift up its
70m-high tower for panoramic city views
(Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Sun 9am-1pm &
2-6pm; AR$5).

ROSARIO
Super-stylish ROSARIO is a cleaner,
greener, less daunting version of Buenos
Aires. The city where Che Guevara
learned to crawl and Lionel Messi learned
to kick a ball is home to a handsome,
academic and culturally inclined
population of just over one million.
Sprawled on the banks of the Río
Paraná , Rosario's assets are its riverside
beaches, parks, restaurants, bars and
museums. For an enjoyable day-trip,
the sandy beaches of the subtropical
delta islands are just a short boat or kayak
ride away. There is stylish shopping to be
found in Rosario's pedestrianized centre,
and free public wi-fi access throughout
the city. Extranjeros (foreigners) are still
very much a novelty here, and whether
you're in town to chill or to party, you'll
be warmly received by the friendly locals.

Costanera
Rosario's Costanera (riverfront) extends
for around 20km from north to south,
providing plenty of green space to
sunbathe or sip mate , as well as water-
front restaurants, bars and museums.
The central Parque Nacional de la Bandera
- a narrow strip of parkland - is the main
setting for regular markets and festivals.
As you stroll north, the park merges with
Parque de España and the large brick
Centro Cultural Parque de España
(Tues-Sun 3-7pm, closed Jan; free;
T 0341 426 0941, W ccpe.org.ar), which
hosts changing modern art exhibitions.
Half a kilometre north is the Museo de
Arte Contemporáneo de Rosario
(Thurs-Tues 2-8pm winter, 3-9pm
summer; AR$5; T 0341 480 4981,
W macromuseo.org.ar), a kitsch temple
to modern Argentine art housed inside
a converted grain silo, its facade painted
in pastel shades. The building - as well as
the views from the top floor - outshines

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The leafy parks, historic buildings and
excellent shopping opportunities make
central Rosario a pleasant place to wander
around at any time of year, while the
riverfront and beaches are extremely
appealing during the summer months.
Start your stroll at the Plaza 25 de Mayo
and be sure to check out the nearby
Catedral de Rosario and Monumento a la
Bandera, both postcard images of the city,
before hitting the shops or settling down
for a spot of sunbathing.