Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 813

INFORMATION
Tourist information Loreto, at Raymondi (Mon-Sat
9am-6pm, Sun 9am-1pm; T 065 236 144, E iperuiquitos
@promperu.gob.pe). Staff can advise on lodges, tour
operators and guides, and can help book accommodation
in Iquitos. They also provide free advocacy should you
run into any problems with tour companies, or need the
police or your embassy. The monthly English-language
newspaper The Iquitos Times ( W iquitostimes.com) is also
a good source of information, and is available at most
hotels and restaurants.
Tourist permits If you are planning a trip into the jungle
with just a guide (as opposed to a group) or to Pacaya
Samiria National Reserve, then talk to SERNANP ( T 065
223 555), located at C Jorge Chávez 930-942 (behind the
military base).

9

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
La Casa Fitzcarraldo Av La Marina 2153,
Punchana T 065 601 138, W casafitzcarraldo
.com. For your own slice of Amazonian and
movie history, stay in this upscale B&B
where the cast and crew of Fitzcarraldo
lodged during the filming (including Mick
Jagger before he quit the project). The
owner, Walter, was the producer on the
film and speaks five languages. Slightly out
of the centre (5min by motokar ; S3), you'll
feel you've stumbled out of the city and
into a jungle oasis. If you can't afford the
stay, S8 will get you in to use their pool
(9am-6pm) and treehouse or to eat in
their excellent restaurant. Book ahead as
there are only four rooms, airport pick-up
included. S180

ACCOMMODATION
El Colibrí Jr. Nauta 172 T 065 241 737, W hostalelcolibri
.net. A modern, clean and pleasant construction right in
the centre. Rooms have cable TV and private bath with
hot water, as we ll as a/c or fans. There's also a decent
breakfast (S6-7). S55
Hostel Charapas Raimondi 156 T 065 272 859,
W hostelcharapas.com. Newly opened hostel right in
the heart of town and catering exclusively for back-
packers - this place only does dorms. There's a TV room,
laundr y se rvice and internet (plus breakfast included).
Dorms S20
Cristal Corazón B&B C Nanay 130 T 065 222 070,
W cristalcorazon.com. A cosy B&B with orthopaedic beds,
healthy breakfasts, a large communal kitchen and a patio.
Mosquito nets and repellent can be provided. Host Miguel
Pizango can organiz e ex peditions, lodge stays and
ayahuasca ceremonies. S50
Flying Dog Malecón Tarapacá 592 T 065 242 476,
W flyingdogperu.com. As the quality of accommodation
in Iquitos can be so variable, you may feel more at ease
staying with this reputable chain. The building overlooks
the river and is v ery central. Breakfast included. Dorms
S30 , doubles S75
Mad Mick's Bunkhouse Putumayo 163 (upstairs 202)
T 992 193 726, E [e-mail]. British
expat Mad Mick will welcome you with a smile to his one
room with eight beds, behind the o ce for his jungle
supplies store. Not for those who ne ed p ersonal space, but
you can't fault it at the price. Dorms S10
La Pascana Pevas 133 T 065 235 581, W pascana.com.
Very friendly little place with book exchange and on-site
agency. Slightly run-down rooms with private bath and
fans are on either side of a flower-filled garden, with
tables for soaking up the atmos pher e or an early evening
drink. BYO mosquito protection. S55

EATING
Food in Iquitos is exceptionally good for a jungle town; fish
dishes are a speciality here, but most tastes are catered for.
As always, the dirt-cheap food can be found at markets
like Belén, where a menú can be as little as S2.50.
Al Carbón Condamine 115 T 065 223 292. A good, clean
and popular place for grills, with a wide range of choices.
Tenderloin kebabs S17; glass of wine S10. Daily 5.30pm-1am.
Ari's Burger Prospero 127 T 065 241 124. An American-
style diner serving more than just burgers, including a
mind-boggling variety of jungle superjuices (from S9) as
well as traditional dishes. The most popular meeting spot
in Iquitos and good for late-night munchies. Burger combo
from S15. Daily 7am-2am.
Dawn on the Amazon Café Malecón Maldonado 185
T 065 234 921, W dawnontheamazoncafe.com. Next to
its associated tour company, this riverfront restaurant
comes highly recommended. Exquisite juice combinations,
all-day lunches or breakfasts, as well as main courses for
dinner are all offered, as is the ayahuasca diet. The food
is free from artificial ingredients and only purified water
is used in food preparation - there's everything from
Mexican to Chinese and Peruvian cuisine on offer. Mains
around S15. Mon-Sat 7.30am-10pm.
Ì Huasaí Jr. Fizcarrald 131 T 065 242 222. Family-run
traditional Peruvian restaurant, always heaving with
locals. Serves an excellent and huge S12 lunch menú
including starter, main and jug of juice. Simply delicious.
Daily 7am-4.30pm (sometimes later).
Ì Karma Café Napo 138 T 065 600 576. Come for
the free wi-fi (which lots of places don't have because
of the isolated location), but stay for the large range of
cocktails (S14) and other drinks, sandwiches (S12) and