Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
ecological variety: the arid Cerros de
Amotape , the mangrove swamps of the
Santuario Nacional Manglares de Tumbes
and the tropical rainforest of the Zona
Reservada de Tumbes . Unfortunately, as so
few tourists explore this part of Peru, tours
can be hard to come by and expensive.
By bus or colectivo Most buses and colectivos coming
to Tumbes arrive at o ces along Av Tumbes Norte. From
here it's a couple of blocks to the Plaza de Armas.
Tourist information iPerú (Malecón III Milenio, 3rd floor
Mon-Sat 8am-1pm & 2-6pm, T 072 506 721). If you're
venturing into the national parks or reserves (though not
the mangrove swamps), you'll need permission from
SERNANP (Av Panamericana Norte 1739; Mon-Fri 8am-
4pm; T 072 526 489). They are also good for helping you
find a guide if you want to explore the area without a tour
company.
Tour operators Mayte Tours (Jr. San Martín 131 T 072
782 532, W maytetours.com); Preference Tours (Calle Grau
427 T 072 525 518 E turismomundial@hotmail.com) and
Tumbes Tours (Av Tumbes Norte 355 T 072 524 837,
W tumbestours.com) all offer trips to the mangroves and
the national parks, but none is cheap.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Tumbes is good for a stroll to see its bright,
almost gaudy modern architecture around
the centre. The large Plaza de Armas feels
very tropical, with sausage trees, a huge
rainbow archway and a stripy cathedral.
Next to the plaza runs the pedestrianized
Paseo de la Concordia (also known as
Av San Martín), which has huge sculptures
and more colourful architecture. Calle
Grau , which leads east off the plaza, has
unusual rickety wooden buildings, while
the southern end leads to the malecón
(boardwalk) along the river. To get to the
national parks without a tour company,
you need to talk to SERNANP and the
tourist information office (see below).
ACCOMMODATION
While there are many budget hotels in Tumbes, few
of them are recommendable. If you don't have mosquito
repellent, go for places with windows that close and fans.
Hospedaje Amazonas Av Tumbes Norte 317 on
the corner of the Plaza de Armas T 072 525 266. One
of the more pleasant of the budget places, with cable
TV, fa ns an d light en-suite rooms. S10 extra for hot
water. S30
Hospedaje Tumbes Jr. Filipinas 311-01 (just off
Av Grau) T 072 522 164. Has definitely seen better days,
but nevertheless the rooms are big enough and have fans.
Cold water only, thou gh th is is rarely a problem here; you
can pay extra for a TV. S35
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane There's a daily flight from Lima with LAN to
and from Tumbes (1hr 45min). Note that Tumbes Airport
is often very quiet, particularly at night, when there's no
access to food or drink. A taxi into town should cost S40;
it's about a 20min journey.
CROSSING INTO ECUADOR
Crossing the border from Tumbes is complicated and has caught many tourists, especially
non-Spanish-speaking ones, adrift in a no-man's land with a lot of canny locals trying to make as
much as they can fleece you for. Remember to change your money well before you get to the
border, as exchange rates in Aguas Verdes (the closest town to the border) can be extortionate.
By far the easiest way to cross the border is to take an international bus service from
Tumbes, such as Ormeño, Cruz del Sur or the Ecuadorian company Cifa, which take you
straight through to Machala in Ecuador (S6-20), only stopping directly outside each
immigration o ce. If you can't do this, you'll have to go it alone. From Tumbes, combis
(40min; S2) and colectivos (30min; S3.50) for the border leave from Calle Mariscal Castilla
- ensure that they'll drop you at the Complejo Inmigraciones (Immigration Complex;
open 24hr), 3km before Aguas Verdes, where you get an exit stamp and tourist card for your
passport. After getting stamped, pick up a mototaxi that will take you on to the border (S2).
Once there, walk over the bridge to the Ecuadorian border town of Huaquillas (see p.630),
where you'll find the Ecuadorian immigration o ce (open 24hr). A taxi from Tumbes will
cost S40-50, and for this amount the driver should wait for you while you get your stamp at
immigration and then take you on to the border.
If you're coming into Peru from Ecuador, it's simply a reversal of the above procedure - note
that Tumbes is a much nicer place to stay than Aguas Verdes - and in both directions the
authorities occasionally require that you show an onward ticket out of their respective
countries. Do not take photographs anywhere near the border or immigration o ces.
 
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