Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

9

Birdhouse complex Sitting on a balcony overlooking the

sea next to Hostal Sol y Mar is this colourful three-in-one

restaurant with wi-fi access. Green Eggs and Ham (open

7am-5pm) does the best breakfasts in town, including

wa es and fantastic American pancakes (S12); Papa Mo's

(open all day) does milkshakes and nothing but milkshakes;

and Surf & Turf is open for lunch and dinner and does, as

the name suggests, fish and steak plates (S25-35).

La Espada Av Piura 501 & 655 T 073 258 334. This

restaurant with two locales is the best for very large

portions of seafood such as ceviche and parihuela espada

(stew). Mains average S20-30, daily lunch menu for S15.

Daily 8am-11pm.

Ì Tao Av Piura 228 T 073 258 056. This place gets packed

every night, as word is spreading about its great Thai and

Chinese food. The tuna steak pad thai (S35) is exquisite and

the service excellent. Mains S20-40. Daily 11am-11pm.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF

Samana Chakra T 073 784 893,

W samanachakra.com. An idyllic resort

right on the beach with private

bungalows, each with their own

individual style, yoga classes, a wholefood

restaurant and a pool that appears to

be disappearing into the ocean. Prices

given are for high season, but the cost is

sometimes a quarter of that in low season.

Two-person bungalow

US$170

end of the p ool s o you ca n sw im over to get that ice-cool

beer. Dorms S30 , doubles S95

The Point Playa del Amor T 073 706 320, W thepoint

hostels.com. Although this hostel is a little out of town

(20min walk along the beach or S2 in a mototaxi ), it has

a lot going for it. There's a variety of dorms, a good bar,

a chill-out pool and they serve food. Be sure to use a

licensed mototax i if c oming for a party at night. Breakfast

included. Dorms S22

Ì Waltako Beach Town Av Panamericana Norte

Km1199, Canoas de Punta Sal T 998 141 976, W waltako

peru.com. For those looking for an unspoilt stretch of

beach away from the craziness of Máncora, this is a sure

bet. Here it's all about eating fresh ceviche , chilling in

hammocks and enjoying the bungalows, complete with

kitchen, cable TV and fans. For more adventurous types,

the owners organize trekking and mountain biking. Take a

bus from Máncora towards Tumbes and ask to be dropped

in Canoas de Punta (30mi in f from here it' s a sh ort moto

ride (S5). Camping/person S20 , bungalows S120

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Eating might be expensive in Máncora, but drinking

certainly is not. Every bar in town has a very flexible

“happy hour”, which usually runs all night; you can get

two cocktails or beers for S10 in many bars. Strangely, the

after-hours nightlife tends to take place in the hostels,

especially Sol y Mar , Loki and The Point , whose full-moon

party every month has become a town fixture.

Iguana's Bar Av Piura 223 T 073 632 762. The oldest bar

in town and a friendly place to have a drink, where every

hour is happy hour. Daily 6pm-3am.

Surfers Bar Block 3 of Av Piura. One of the few bars in

Máncora that isn't just a roadside shack, this place has Elvis

posters and kitsch on the walls, and rock and pop on the

stereo. Happy hour is two drinks for S15. Daily from 6pm.

EATING

Many of the restaurants aimed at gringos are along the

Panamericana and serve excellent international cuisine,

but none is cheap. Better-priced grub can be found

towards the market at the north end of town, where Av

Piura becomes Av Prolongación Grau. Here you can find

S5 menus, pollo a la brasa (spit-roast chicken) joints,

ceviche for S2, and fresh fruit and veg.

El Ají Pasaje 8 de Noviembre s/n (between Papa Mo's & Del

Wawa) T 968 247 189. Down a little passageway that

leads to the sea - from the beach looking back towards

the main drag it's to the right of Birdhouse . A tiny little

Mexican restaurant that serves great burritos, tacos and

quesadillas for around S23, not forgetting some mean

cocktails. Daily12.30pm-11pm.

La Bajadita Av Piura 424 T 073 258 385. For a decent

espresso and a huge selection of home-made cakes and

desserts, this place can't be beaten. Also serves reasonably

priced sandwiches, cocktails and combos. Main courses

S25-28. Tues-Sun 10.30am-10pm.