Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 792

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the most well-known meeting spot in town and serves
cheap drinks. Daily 8am-10.30pm; happy hour 7-10.30pm
(Thurs evening, all cocktails are S3).
Sabes? Av Larco 804 W sabesbar.com. This place is either
great fun or fairly quiet, as it's right down at the end of
the main drag past Big Ben restaurant. When it's the
former it's a fantastic place to meet people, relax on the
outdoor terrace with a happy-hour cocktail and munch
on a pizza (S25-30). Mon-Sat 7pm-1am.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
El Kero La Rivera 612 T 044 461 184.
A modern and chic lounge bar-restaurant
not to be missed. The three-storey
building contains a restaurant with
seafront dining on a balcony, with an
impressive range of sumptuous seafood
and traditional Peruvian dishes. You can
come here at any time of day really,
as they do breakfasts, amazing cocktails
(S18-20), have a huge wine list and
there's a dancefloor too. Mains S33-38.
Mon-Fri 8am-1am, Sat 8am-2am, Sun
8am-midnight.

ANCIENT SITES AROUND
TRUJILLO
One of the main reasons for coming to
Trujillo is to visit the numerous archeo-
logical sites dotted around the nearby
Moche and Chicama valleys. For anyone
even remotely interested in Peruvian
history these should not be missed.

EATING
There are restaurants all along the front in Huanchaco,
many of them with balconies overlooking the beach.
Not surprisingly, seafood is the local speciality, including
excellent crab; ceviche is traditionally only served at lunch.
Ì Chocolate Café Av La Rivera 752 T 044 462 420.
Really good Peruvian hot chocolate for the low season
when Huanchaco gets pretty cold. Breakfasts, soups,
wraps and inventive sandwiches are served up in a cheer-
ful incense-scented café with locally made artesanía .
Full English breakfast S15. Organizes a tea party on Thurs
where Peruvians and foreigners can practise each others'
language. Owner Choco also organizes archeological tours.
Wed-Mon 8.30am-8.30pm.
Estrella Marina Av Larco 740. Very good, fresh ceviche
(S15) served in a seafront restaurant, which often plays
loud salsa music and is popular with locals. Daily
10am-11pm.
Menu Land C Los Pinos 250. Run by a friendly German-
Peruvian couple, the name refers to the set lunch menú
you'll find all over Peru. Food is basic, but you won't find
bigger or cheaper portions anywhere else; great for
refuelling on a very tight budget. Daily 8am-10pm.

Huacas del Moche
Five kilometres south of Trujillo, beside
the Río Moche in a barren desert
landscape, are two temples that really
bring ancient Peru to life. The stunning
complex known as the HUACAS DEL
MOCHE (daily 9am-4pm; S10 including
guided tour in English or Spanish;
T

044 297 430, W huacasdemoche.pe) is
believed to have been the capital, or most
important ceremonial and urban centre,

ANCIENT SITES
Most companies offer tours to Chan
Chan (see p.798) and to the Huacas del
Moche (see above) (the Huaca del Sol
and Huaca de la Luna). These cost around
S20 each (half-day), or S30-35 for both
(full day), but prices change depending
on the season; expect to pay more for an
English-speaking guide. All operators have
slightly different programmes, so shop
around. Tours can also be organized from
Trujillo for Chiclayo sites, and even sites as
far away as Kuelap near Chachapoyas.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Huanchaco has a buzzing nightlife, with many bars and
clubs. Always ask around to see if there's a pop-up party on
the beach going on, or to find the coolest bar (these can
open and close quickly). Outside of peak season nightlife
will certainly be calmer.
Da Beach House Out of town along Av La Rivera on the
beach. The most popular of the beach hangouts in town,
this open-air place has live music, club nights and plays
everything from reggae and rock to electronica. Has a bar
area with sofas and projector. A cover charge sometimes
applies. Tues-Sun from 5pm.
My Friend C Los Pinos 533 T 044 461 080. A good
restaurant as well as a cheap hostel, but it is definitely

TOUR OPERATORS
Established operators include:
Muchik Tours C Santa Teresa 146 depto. 203,
La Merced T 044 243 022, W muchiktours.com.
Trujillo Tours Diego de Almagro 301 T 044 233 091.
Colonial Tours Independencia 616 T 044 291
034, W hostalcolonial.com.pe.