Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 760

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enforce stricter regulations. For most of
them, it is recommended to hire local
guides, arrieros (muleteers) and mules
(around S60 per day for each). For
information about requirements to
walk the trails see the South American
Explorers website W saexplorers.org.

crossing the Apurimac Canyon. Day one
is a steep descent of around 2000m, and
day two a steep climb up the other side.
It is recommended to spend one whole
day (day three) at the ruins, and then
either return on the same route, or via
Huanipaca. It is also possible to link this
trail to the last day of the Salcantay via
Yanama, or to Hancacalle, returning to
Cusco via Quillabamba (allow at least
eight days for these options).
Hiring arrieros and mules is highly
recommended for the above treks, as the
area is very remote. To get to Cachora ,
take an Abancay-bound bus from
Cusco and ask to be dropped off at
the Cachora turn-off (4hr), from where
you can catch a taxi to the village, where
there is basic accommodation, arrieros
and mules for hire.

Salcantay
The most popular of the alternatives,
this five- to seven-day hike takes you
either as far as the hydroelectric plant
(from where it's a short bus and train
ride to Aguas Calientes), or to the village
of Huayllabamba, where you can join
the regular Inca Trail. Beginning in
Mollepata, the first day is a gentle climb
through winding cloudforest trails to
Soraypampa. On the second day there's
a steep climb up to the only high pass
on the trail (4750m), at the foot of the
Salcantay glacier; the landscape here is
sparse and dry. From the pass you
descend into cloudforest with views of
the verdant canyon below, camping that
evening at Colcapampa. On the third day
a five-hour walk takes you to the jungle
town of La Playa, and then it's either
an hour's bus ride to the town of Santa
Teresa, or a six- to seven-hour walk. From
Santa Teresa, you walk along the valley to
the hydroelectric plant, from where there
are trains to Aguas Calientes (check for
the latest schedules).
Alternatively, on the second day you'll
descend along the right-hand side of the
pass into the valley towards the village of
Huayllabamba, and join the Inca Trail
there. Buses run from Cusco's Avenida
Arcopata to Mollepata every morning
(hourly from 5.30am; 3hr).

Ausangate
This incredible high-altitude trek takes
five to six days, plus two more days for
travel, and provides the chance to see
herds of vicuña wander among glacial
lakes with the imposing snowcapped
Ausangate mountain towering above you.
The entire trek is above 4000m and
includes several high passes over 5000m.
Beginning at the town of Tinqui , you
make a loop around the Ausangate
mountain, in either direction, passing
through small Andean villages with great
views of nearby glaciers. There are
morning buses to Tinqui from Cusco's
Calle Tomaso Tito Condemayta at
around 10am (5hr).

Lares
There are several options for trekking in
the Lares valley , lasting two to five days,
and all offer splendid views of snow-
capped peaks and green valleys. The hikes
allow you to properly experience village
life in the Andes. You'll pass through
communities where you can stay with
local families and purchase traditional
crafts. The hot springs in Lares make for
a relaxing end to any trek in the area.
Some tour operators sell a three-day Lares
trek with a day-trip to Machu Picchu
on the fourth day, but do not be misled;
in most cases you will still need to travel

Choquequirao
A trek to the archeological site of
Choquequirao and back will take four
or five days. Believed to be much larger
than Machu Picchu, Choquequirao is
only forty percent uncovered, and is a
much more authentic experience as it
still receives few visitors and you can find
yourself wandering alone among huge
ruined walls covered with cacti and exotic
flowers. There are four trekking options,
all starting at Cachora , which involves