Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
a lounge area with ca ble T V, book ex chan ge, wi-fi and all-day
coffee and tea. Dorms S20 , doubles S55
Inka Wasi Av Pachacutec 112. This warm and welcoming
restaurant-cum-pizzeria serves a range of pizzas (S21-42)
cooked in front of your very eyes, as well as pricier local
favourites such as cuy al horno (roasted guinea pig; S80).
Daily 9am-10.30pm.
Ollantay Av Pachacutec 112. This eclectically decorated
bar/lounge with an eagle made entirely of nails, and taitas
(shaman-like dolls) safely locked away in glass cabinets,
serves ten flavours of chilcano (pisco). There's a darts board,
billiards table and the Peruvian game of sapito . Cocktails
S18. Happy hour 6-10pm. Daily 2pm-late.
Toto's Imperio de los Incas s/n. This warm, rustic
restaurant with a crackling open fire to grill meats and
views over Urubamba River offers a huge buffet lunch
(noon-4pm; S65). There's a popular evening show upstairs
(Mon-Fri at 8pm; 45min), featuring a contemporary circus
performance. Daily 10am-10pm.
9
EATING AND DRINKING
Since there is enormous competition for customers, you'll
perpetually find yourself running the gauntlet of over-
eager waiters, all trying to entice you into their particular
restaurant, which looks and offers exactly the same dishes
as most eateries within sight. Below are the exceptions.
Ì Bistro Indio Feliz Lloque Yupanqui 3y4 M-12 T 084
211 090. The best restaurant in town has been going for
over two decades, serving top-notch French and Peruvian
dishes in a unique nautical setting. The set menu (S59) is
exceptional value and the pisco sours the largest you'll
ever come across. Book ahead. Daily 11am-10pm.
La Boulangerie de Paris Jr. Sinchi Roca. This French-
run bakery serves superb freshly baked sweet and savoury
pastries, including empanadas (S8). With sandwiches
(S5-15), quiches (S8), lasagne (S12) and fresh buns (4 for
S1), this is a great spot to pick up a packed lunch for Machu
Picchu. Daily 7am-9pm.
Ì Captain's Bar Lloque Yupanqui 3y4 M-12. Located
just above Bistro Indio Feliz, this welcoming bar-cum-
crêperie is the perfect spot for a drink or two. Pick up
one of the instruments or sit at the piano and share
your musical talents with the other guests. Happy hour
6-7.30pm. Daily 6pm-2am.
Cupido Alameda Los Artesanos L-1. Statues of Incas with
wings and arrows decorate the premises of the town's
main club. Split over two floors, the musical flavour here
is mainly disco music with a pinch of pop. Cocktails S16.
No cover charge. Daily 8pm-3am.
Govinda Pachacutec 20. The only veggie place in town
rustles up some tasty dishes blending local produce and
all manner of Indian spices. Favourites include the curry
rice (S21) and the deliciously fresh natural yogurt (S6-14).
Mon-Sat 9am-9pm, occasionally Sun.
DIRECTORY
Banks BCP on Av Los Incas, next to Toto's , Banco de la
Nación on Av Los Incas by the police station and Caja
Municipal by the Mercado Artesanal all have ATMs, but
sometimes run out of money, especially at weekends.
Hospital Ministerio de la Salud by the Mercado Artesanal
has a 24hr emergency room ( T 084 211 161). There's a
24hr pharmacy on the plaza.
Internet Cyber World, on the plaza, has reliable internet
(daily 8.30am-10pm; S3/hr). Most restaurants offer wi-fi.
Laundry Mariana on the eastern end of Av Pachacutec
(Mon-Sat 7am-9pm; S8/hr).
Police Av Imperio de Los Incas 401 ( T 084 211 178).
Post O ce On the western end of the plaza (Mon-Fri
9am-8pm, Sat 9am-1pm).
ALTERNATIVE INCA TRAILS
As permits to walk the famous Inca Trail
become more expensive and the Trail
more crowded, many tour operators
and individuals have started exploring
alternative Inca Trails . Many of these offer
stunning scenery to rival that of the Inca
Trail, as well as ecological biodiversity
and in some cases archeological sites
larger than Machu Picchu itself. Of the
several established alternative trails,
only one (Salcantay) takes you close to
the site of Machu Picchu. At the time of
writing all of these trails can still be done
independently, apart from the Salcantay
trail that joins the Inca Trail, although
it may still be necessary to purchase
a permit from the INC office in Cusco
prior to setting off, and plans are afoot to
Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Rupa Wasi Condor House C Huanacaure
180 T 084 211 101, W rupawasi.net. The
young conservationist owners here have
tried to preserve the original design of
the house and maintain the surrounding
natural environment; the result is
a beautiful eco-friendly lodge with
avocado, walnut and native trees. The
rustic Tree House restaurant is one of
the best in town, featuring novoandina
cuisine, which combines local ingredients
with international influences to great
effect. They a lso offer cooking lessons
(S108).
US$86
 
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