Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 750

ACCOMMODATION
Chaska Wasi Plaza de Armas s/n T 084 204 045,
W hostalchaskawasi.com. Named after Chaska, the cat
who roams the premises, this hostel has colourful single-
sex and mixed dorms with feline murals. The rooftop
terrace has great views over town and the nearby Inca
ruins. Rates inclu de br eakfast a nd t here's wi-fi and a book
exchange. Dorms S25 , doubles S50
KB Tambo Hostal Ventiderio s/n T 084 204 035,
W kbperu.com. This welcoming guesthouse offers a range
of spacious rooms, some with views over the surrounding
mountains and Inca ruins, others overlooking the leafy
flower garden that attracts an array of tweeting humming-
birds. Their popular hikin g and mountain-biking tours are
worth checking out. S60
Hostal El Tambo C del Horno s/n T 084 385 770,
W hostaleltambo.com. The rooms at this wonderful place
are set on two floors and look over a pleasant interior
garden with hammocks. Local fabrics and paintings
decorate the interiors, all with beautiful hardwood floors.
Rates i nclud e breakfast and wi-fi. Discounts for large
groups. S50

9

Downhill from the plaza, just across
the Río Patacancha, is the old Inca Plaza
Mañya Raquy, dominated by the town's
star attraction - the astonishing Inca ruins
atop some steep terraces. Climbing up
through the fortress (daily 7am-5pm;
entrance with Boleto Turístico, see box,
p.741), the solid stone terraces, jammed
against the natural contours of the cliff,
remain frighteningly impressive and
the view of the valley from the top is
stupendous. Not only was this the site
of a major battle in 1536 between the
Spaniards and the rebellious Manco Inca,
who fought them off before being forced
to retreat to the jungle stronghold in
Vilcabamba, but this was also a ceremonial
centre; note the particularly fine
stonework towards the top of the ruins.
Directly across, above the town, are rows
of ruined buildings originally thought to
have been prisons but now believed to have
been granaries. To the front of these it's
quite easy to make out a gigantic, rather
grumpy-looking profile of a face carved out
of the rock, possibly an Inca sculpture of
Wiracochan - commonly referred to as
Tunupa - the mythical messenger from
Wiracocha, the major creator god of the
Incas. It's a stiff forty-minute climb to the
viewpoint; follow the signpost from Waqta,
off the Plaza de Armas.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus and colectivo From Cusco, several buses daily
go via Urubamba from Av Grau 525, as well as numerous
colectivos and combis from Pavitos in Cusco (between
6am-5pm; 1hr 30min-2hr) and Urubamba (30min). From
Ollanta, Cusco-bound tourist buses (2hr) leave from the
small yard just outside the railway station. For Urubamba
catch a combi or colectivo from the Mercado Central, off the
southeastern corner of the plaza (every 15min; 30min).
On foot Public buses leave from the plaza at 10am and
3pm to Santa María; from here you can catch a combi to the
HydroElectric Station, from where it is a 3hr hike along the
railway tracks to Aguas Calientes.
By train The train station is 1km from town, or a 10min
walk along Av Ferrocarríl from the main part of the
village. A mototaxi into town is S1 per person. There are at
least ten trains daily each way between Cusco and Machu
Picchu via Ollanta (check W perurail.com for an updated
schedule); book tickets in advance, particularly the return,
since trains going back to Cusco fill up with hikers coming
off the Inca Trail.

EATING
La Esquina Plaza de Armas. Baked goods fresh from the
oven every day, including empanadas , breads and cakes,
while the coffee is sourced from a local artisanal producer.
Salads (S10-15), soups (S10) and sandwiches (S9-17), as
well as all-day breakfasts (S5-15), are on offer. Free wi-fi.
Daily 7am-8pm.
Ì Hearts Café Av Ventiderio s/n. This wonderful little
café serves chunky home-made soups (S10), huge salads
(S10) and a range of international dishes (mains S14-
24.50), including plenty of veggie options. The bread is
freshly baked and the cookies and pies (S8) are all home-
made. Profits go out to the local community. Free wi-fi.
Daily 7am-8.45pm.
Ì Tutti Amore Av Estación s/n. This little ice-cream
joint produces over eighty flavours a year, solely using local
produce including all manner of seasonal fruits. S5/scoop
or two for S8. Daily 9am-7pm.

THE INCA TRAIL
The world-famous Inca Trail is set in the
Sanctuario Histórico de Machu Picchu ,
an area set apart by the Peruvian state
for the protection of its flora, fauna and
natural beauty. Acting as a bio-corridor
between the Cusco Andes, the Sacred
Valley and the lowland Amazon forest,
the National Sanctuary of Machu Picchu
has a huge biodiversity, with species
including the cock-of-the-rock (known