Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 736

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biggest tourist destinations, thanks to its
narrow whitewashed streets, thriving
culture, lively nightlife, substantial Inca
ruins and architectural treasures from
the colonial era.
Once you've acclimatized to the 3400m
altitude, there are dozens of enticing
destinations within easy reach. For most
people the Sacred Valley is the obvious
first choice, with the citadel of Machu
Picchu as the ultimate goal. The
mountainous region around Cusco boasts
some of the country's finest trekking, and
beyond the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
are hundreds of lesser-known paths into
the mountains, including the Salcantay
and Ausungate treks, which are even
more stunning and challenging. Cusco is
also a convenient jumping-off point for
the exploration of the lowland Amazon
rainforest in Madre de Dios, such as the
Tambopata-Candamo Reserved Zone, or
the Manu Biosphere Reserve, among the
most biodiverse wildernesses on Earth.

after holding Atahualpa to ransom, then
killing him anyway. The city's beauty
surpassed anything the Spaniards had
seen before in the New World, the
stonework was better than any in Spain
and precious metals were used in a sacred
context throughout the city. As usual,
they lost no time in looting it.
Like its renowned art, the Cusco of
today is dark yet vibrantly coloured,
reflecting its turbulent legacy. It's a
politically active, left-of-centre city
where the streets are often alive with
fiestas and demonstrations.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The city divides into several distinct
zones, with the Plaza de Armas at the
heart of it all.
he Boleto Turístico Tourist Ticket (see
box opposite) will give you an idea of
some of the most popular city and sacred
valley sites, but it does not include entry
to the one unmissable Cusco site, the
Inca sun temple at Q'orikancha . Around
the city there are opportunities for tours,
hikes and extreme sports, as well as the
fascinating Inca sites of Sacsaywamán
and Tambomachay .

SOME HISTORY
Legend has it that Cusco was founded by
Manco Capac and his sister Mama Occlo
in around 1100 AD. Over the next
two centuries, the Cusco Valley was home
to the Inca tribe, but it wasn't until
Pachacutec assumed power in 1438 that
Cusco became the centre of an expanding
empire. The new ruler designed the city
in the shape of a puma, with its head
incorporating some of its most important
sites. Of all the Inca rulers, only
Atahualpa , the last, never actually resided
in Cusco, and even he was en route there
when the conquistadors captured him
at Cajamarca. Francisco Pizarro reached
the native capital on November 15, 1533,

Plaza de Armas
Cusco's ancient and modern centre, the
Plaza de Armas , corresponds roughly to
the ceremonial Huacaypata , the Incas'
ancient central plaza, and is a constant
hub of activity, its northern and western
sides filled with shops and restaurants.
Here you'll be approached by touts,
waiters and shoe-shine boys, and here is
where you'll come to watch the parades
during Cusco's festivities. You'll see two
flags flying here - the Peruvian one and
the rainbow flag of Tuhuantinsuyo, which
represents the four corners of the Inca
empire (not to be confused with the gay
pride flag). On the northeastern side
stands the imposing cathedral, flanked by
the Jesús María and El Triunfo churches,
with the Compañía de Jesús church on
the eastern side.

WHEN TO VISIT
The best time to visit the area around
Cusco is during the dry season
(May-Sept), when it's warm with clear
skies during the day but relatively cold at
night. During the wet season (Oct-April)
it rarely rains every day or all week, but
the heavy downpours trigger landslides,
making it di cult and dangerous to travel
in the nearby mountains.

La Catedral
The plaza's exposed northeastern edge
is dominated by the fortress-like