Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 716

9

Note that whistling in the north of Peru
can be a greeting rather than an attempt
at harassment.
One of the most common things
travellers do that offends local people is
to take their picture without asking - so
always ask first, and respect a negative
answer. At tourist sites all over Peru,
you'll encounter women and children
in stunning traditional dress who expect
a tip for having their photo taken
(1-2 soles is a reasonable amount). In the
highlands in particular there is a strong
culture of exchange, meaning that if you
receive something, you are expected to
give in return. This can be as simple as
giving someone coca leaves in exchange
for directions on a trail.
Tipping is becoming the norm in more
upmarket restaurants, where a ten percent
gratuity is expected and sometimes
automatically added to the bill; in cheap
local eateries, tips are received with
surprise and gratitude. It's worth bearing
in mind that some unscrupulous travel
agencies pay their guides very low wages,
meaning that they rely on tips, as do
freelance guides in museums (agree on
a fee before a tour). You should always
tip your guide and porters on the Inca
Trail (see box, p.756).

OPENING HOURS
Bars and pubs tend to be open from
11am until midnight or later on
weekends. Clubs typically open at 8pm or
9pm, though things don't kick off until
after midnight, and the revelry continues
until 4am or 5am.

Surprisingly for a coffee-growing
country, Peruvians tend to drink either
café pasado (previously percolated coffee
mixed with hot water to serve) or simple
powdered Nescafé, though it is possible to
find good coffee in big cities. A wide
variety of herbal teas is also available, such
as menta (mint), manzanilla (camomile)
and the extremely popular mate de coca
- tea brewed from coca leaves that helps
one acclimatize to high altitude.
Peru brews some excellent beer, the most
popular brands being Cristal , Pilsen and
Cusqueña - all light lagers, though you can
also get Pilsen cerveza negra (dark beer).
Good regional brews include Arequipeña
and Trujillana (named after the cities
they're brewed in). Most Peruvian wine
tends to be sweet and almost like sherry.
Among brands more attuned to the
Western palate are Tabanero , Tacama and
Vista Alegre . The national beverage and a
source of great pride is pisco, a potent
grape brandy with a unique and powerful
flavour. Pisco sour - a mix of pisco, lime
juice, ice and sugar - is a very palatable
and extremely popular cocktail found on
menus everywhere.

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR
ACTIVITIES
When it comes to exploring the
wilderness, few of the world's countries
can offer anything as varied, rugged and
colourful as Peru.

CULTURE AND ETIQUETTE
Due to the huge variety of geographical
conditions found within Peruvian territory,
culture and traditions tend to vary between
regions. On the whole, coastal people tend
to be more outgoing and vivacious, while
the mountain people of Quechua descent
are more reserved and modest. The jungle
is still home to many indigenous groups
who keep their ancestral traditions and way
of life. All Peruvians are family-oriented
and tend to be close to large extended
families. Machismo is alive and well in
Peru, though women travelling alone are
not likely to encounter much trouble.

PERU'S CULINARY SUPERSTAR
No foodie should come to Peru without
sampling the gastronomic delights of
Gastón Acurio , the chef who put
Peruvian cuisine on the world map.
His restaurants include ChiCha in both
Cusco and Arequipa, La Trattoria del
Monasterio in Arequipa, La Mar in Lima
and his flagship restaurant, Astríd y Gastón ,
also in the capital. The food ranges from
superb takes on regional cuisine to
original and innovative fusion creations.
Not to be missed.