Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EATING AND DRINKING
Many of San Antonio de Areco's restaurants and bars
have been given Old World-style makeovers, and their
continued patronage by weathered estancia workers
gives them an air of authenticity.
Almacén de Ramos Generales Zapiola 143 T 02326
456 376, W ramosgeneralesareco.com.ar. Old bottles and
gaucho paraphernalia line the walls of this delightful
parrilla; the rabbit and trout specials and waist-softening
desserts ensure a steady stream of regulars. Mains around
AR$80. Daily.
La Esquina de Merti Arellano 149 T 02326 456 705,
W esquinademerti.com.ar. Dolled up like a traditional corner
store, this spacious and atmospheric plaza-side restaurant
excels in fast and friendly service. Parrilla for two AR$110;
pastas around AR$40. Daily until 1am.
La Olla de Cobre Matheu 433 T 02326 453 105, W laolla
decobre.com.ar. A small chocolate factory and sweet
shop selling superb home-made alfajores . Sample before
buying. Closed Tues.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The most famous attractions can be
found north of the city centre, next to
the zoo, and in the middle of the pleasant
lush parkland, Paseo del Bosque . he
Museo de la Plata (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm;
AR$6) was the first museum built in
Latin America and has a wonderful
collection of skeletons, stuffed animals
and fossils, set in a crumbling building
in the midst of the university. Though
desperately in need of refurbishment,
the museum is well worth visiting to see
the vast whale bones and the models of
prehistoric animals.
From the Paseo del Bosque (Av Iraola),
avenidas 51 and 53 lead down through
the historic centre to the Plaza Moreno .
On its far side stands the colossal,
neo-Gothic brick Catedral , with an
impressive marble interior of thick
columns and high vaulted ceilings.
Roughly halfway between the two is
Plaza San Martín , the lively heart of the
city. On the western side, the Centro
Cultural Pasaje Dardo Rocha (daily
9am-10pm; free) occupies the city's
former train station, taking up an
entire block between avenidas 49 and 50,
6 and 7. Behind the elegant, French-
and Italian-influenced facade are housed
a cinema and various exhibition spaces,
1
LA PLATA
La Plata became the capital of the province
of Buenos Aires in 1880, when the city
of Buenos Aires was made the Federal
Capital. Close enough to make an easy
day-trip, it has a relaxed, small city feel.
The geometric design, by French architect
Pedro Benoît, and grid-numbered streets,
were designed to make navigating the city
easy but at times do exactly the opposite.
MAR DEL PLATA
Argentina's beaches are somewhat overshadowed by neighbouring Uruguay's golden
sands, in particular glamorous Punta del Este (see p.848). Still, a seaside outing in summer is
a quintessential Argentine experience - and Mar del Plata , boasting some 50km of beach
400km south of Buenos Aires, is the country's number one resort. In the summer season
(mid-Dec to March), millions of city-dwellers descend on the place, generating vibrant eating,
drinking and entertainment scenes (or overcrowding and overpricing, depending on your
point of view).
Though Mar del Plata may have lost some of the lustre of days gone by, glimpses of
glamour still abound in the city's restored early twentieth-century mansions (check out
French-style Villa Ortiz Basualdo, now the Museo Municipal de Arte , at Avenida Colón
1189, and the Centro Cultural Victoria Ocampo , Matheu 1851. The renowned
International Film Festival is held in Mar del Plata in November, showing new Argentine
and international films.
Nearby Cariló and Mar de los Pampas are both eco-resorts that provide a more laidback
seaside experience, set within beautiful pine forests. Rent a house or stay in a luxury hotel and
chill out for a few days - but be warned, these are boutique resorts for Argentina's rich and
famous, so you won't find anything nearing a mid-range or budget accommodation option.
There are numerous daily buses from Buenos Aires to Mar del Plata (5-6hr), or (not
recommended) you can make the journey less comfortably (from AR$100) by train , from
Constitución station (3 daily, 6hr), or fly across in less than an hour (2-3 daily).
 
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