Paraguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 695

Estigarribia) with a picturesque pier, which
becomes crowded from December to
February with Asunceños escaping the city
on day-trips. It is also known for its huge
strawberry ( frutilla ) crops and every
September it holds the Festival de las
Frutillas. Don't miss the outstanding craft
shops El Cántaro (Mcal. Estigarribia, cnr
La Candelaria; W el-cantaro.com) and the
Centro Cultural del Lago (Yegros 855, at
Mcal. López; W ccdl.com.py). There is
tourist information at La Candelaria 515
( T 0291 4335 00). To get there, catch bus
#203 from Dr R. de Francia via Mercado
4, where you could also take the #11
(Gs2700; 1hr 30min).

there are rowing boats and pedalos for
rent, as well as craft stalls at Playa la
Rotonda near the main square. Tourist
information is at Casa Hassler on Luís
F. Vaché one block from the plaza ( T 051
223 2974, W sanbernardino.gov.py), and
Aventura Xtrema (Ntra. Señora de la
Asunción, cnr Hassler; W aventuraxtrema.
com.py) can sort out all your extreme
sporting needs, including waterskiing,
even when their shop shuts in winter.
Buses depart every one to two hours from
Asunción's main terminal (see p.696).

ACCOMMODATION
Brisas del Mediterraneo T 051 223 2459, W paraguay
-hostel.com. Hostel with dorms and space to camp 2km
north of town, still on the shores of the lake . Dorms (at
weekend in high season, when two-night min) G s170,000

San Bernardino
From Areguá you can get two buses
(changing at the main crossroads in
Ypacaraí town; takes less than 1hr), or in
summer, a boat, to the shady village of
SAN BERNARDINO , or “SanBer” as it's
locally known, on the eastern shore of
the lake. Founded in the 1880s by five
German families, the town has retained
an orderly feel. In the winter it is a ghost
town full of exotic birdsong, bromeliads,
and sprinklers maintaining the perfect
lawns of Asunción's elite's second homes,
but in summer it springs to life, although
predictably prices soar. Outside town
there's fantastic walking in the mix of
valleys and wooded slopes, while in town

East of the
Paraguay
The Río Paraguay slices the country into
two distinct landscapes. The wild west of
the Chaco couldn't be more different to the
populous, diverse east. Some 97 percent of
the population live on this side of the river,
and it holds the majority of Paraguay's
tourist draws. Whether you experience
the human influence of the Jesuit missions ,
the Itaipú hydroelectric dam , Encarnación's
fabulous Carnaval , or the under-promoted
and under-explored wildlife of the Atlantic
Forest, in either the Parque Nacional San
Rafael or Bosque Mbaracayú (see box,
p.691), you'll leave wondering why more
people don't come to Paraguay. The
exquisite Laguna Blanca (see box, p.691),
and the tranquil town labelled the “pearl of
the north”, Concepción , will only confirm
the feeling that you've stumbled across
some of the world's last secret spots.

8

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Hotel del Lago Tte. Weiler 401 esq.
Mcal. López; T 051 223 2201, W www
.hoteldellago.org. Built in 1888, the
Hotel del Lago on the main plaza boasts
a formidable history, tinged with dark
Nazi associations, alongside a who's who
of Paraguay's rich and famous. It has
recently been tastefully restored in its full
Victoriana glory, and includes a museum,
a treetop adventure circuit. It exudes
an irresistibly nostalgic air, and watching
the sunsets from its fern-laden terrace
overlooking its beautiful grounds rolling
down to the lake will be a highlight of
any trip t o Paraguay. En-suite do ubles
G

ENCARNACIÓN
Known as the “Perla del Sur” (Pearl of
the South), ENCARNACIÓN is Paraguay's
third-largest, but second-wealthiest city
outside of the capital, and you'll notice
some extraordinary houses as you walk

s400,000 , two night s (per nig ht) G s280,000 ,

four nights or more G s200,000