Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 64

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combine with gaucho culture to charming
effect. Taking the ferry across the Río de la
Plata to Colonia , in Uruguay (see p.843),
also makes a great day out. Wandering
around the old town's cobbled streets - a
UNESCO World Heritage Site - and
eating in the sunny main plaza can be a
welcome relief from hectic Buenos Aires.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Marco Polo Suites Hostel Paraná de
las Palmas, at Cruz Colorada, Tigre T 011
4728 0395, W marcopoloinnnautico.com.
A beautiful riverside setting with river
beach and pool. They can organize
hikin g tour s, kayaking and fishing for
you. AR$700

TIGRE AND THE DELTA
A short train ride north of the city centre,
the river port of TIGRE distributes the
timber and fruit produced in the delta
of the Paraná River . Originally a remote
system of rivers dotted with inaccessible
islands, the Delta is now crowded with
weekend homes and riverside restaurants.

the other half lived; there is a fine art
collection inside and there are great views
from the terrace.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By train To get to Tigre you can either take a direct train
from Retiro (Mitre line, every 10min; 1hr; AR$2) or take
the commuter train to Bartolomé Mitre (every 15min);
walk across the bridge to Maipú station, and jump on the
touristic Tren de la Costa (every 20min; AR$16 one-way).
This smart train runs through the leafy suburbs, stopping
at scenic stations to the north of the city.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The river itself is the principal attraction.
To experience it, head for Tigre's Estación
Fluvial from where inexpensive local
wooden ferries leave every twenty minutes
or so. Take one of these to “Tres Bocas”
(AR$40) where there are two or three
good restaurants and cafés with riverfront
verandas, or simply enjoy a cruise. A
tourist office at the Estación Fluvial can
give you a map of the islands and details
of the numerous boat companies serving
them (among them Río Tur T 011 4731
0280, W rioturcatamaranes.com.ar, leaving
from the Los Mimbreros dock; and Sturla
T

ACCOMMODATION
Delta Hostel Coronel Morales 1418, Tigre T 011 5245
9776, W tigredeltahostel.com.ar. This friendly hostel offers
free massages and organizes a host of activities such as
boat trips and kayaking on the Delta, a s well as typical
Argentine asados . Dorms AR$80 , doubles AR$340

EATING AND DRINKING
There are numerous cheap and cheerful parrillas on the
mainland. A more romantic option, however, is to stop off
by boat at one of the secluded riverside restaurants.
Beixa Flor Arroyo Abra Vieja 148 T 011 4728 2397,
W beixaflor.com.ar. This quiet and colourful restaurant
serves up delicious home-made food (ranging from river
fish to bife de chorizo ) out in its peaceful garden or by its
private beach. If you can't bear to tear yourself away, book
yourself into one of their rooms for the night. Three-course
meal around AR$170. Daily.
El Gato Blanco Rio Capitán 80 T 011 4728 0390, W gato
-blanco.com. A family favourite, El Gato Blanco has an
attractive deck area and flower-filled garden, as well as a
mini playground. Inside is an elegant tea room. Three-
course meal around AR$160. Daily noon-3pm.

011 4731 1300, W sturlaviajes.com.ar,
from the Estación Fluvial). The town of
Tigre is often forgotten by tourists plying
the river, but it too has some interesting
places to visit. About four blocks from the
Estación Fluvial is the colourful Puerto de
Frutos (daily 10am-6pm) where hundreds
of baskets made from Delta plants, spices,
wooden furniture, and handicrafts are
on sale. Across the bridge you'll find
the ageing but well-thought-out Museo
Naval , at Paseo Victorica 602 (Mon-Fri
8.30am-5.30pm, Sat & Sun
10.30am-6.30pm; AR$12), and if you
keep walking up the river the spectacular
Tigre Club , now the Museo de Arte Tigre
(Wed-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat & Sun
noon-7pm, AR$3), will come into view.
The carefully restored early twentieth-
century building gives an idea of how

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO
The refined pampas town of
SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO , set on the
meandering Río Areco 110km northwest
of Buenos Aires, is the spiritual home
of the gaucho or Argentine cowboy.