Paraguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 693

Buses You can flag down buses at all street corners.
Destinations are advertised on the front and there is a
flat fare of Gs2300. From the centre, buses to most parts
of town run along Oliva, which becomes Cerro Corá. Buses
#31 and #8 go to the bus terminal; #30 goes to the airport
via Villa Mora; #31, #12, #28 and #56 all go to Villa Mora
from the centre; #21 and 27 go from Herrera/Haedo in the
centre to Mercado 4.
Taxis A journey within the centre shouldn't come to more
than about Gs25,000; there are ranks every few streets in
the centre, and in the Plaza de los Héroes.

Asunción. Immaculately kept rooms, some with balconies,
look out over courty ards either fi filled with greenery, or with
a small pool. Rooms G s231,000

EATING
At lunchtime it is easy to find cheap filling food - simply
look out for the barbecues springing up outside restaurants
all over the centre, chalk boards displaying the menú del
día , or head over to Mercado 4 (see box opposite).
Bar San Roque Eligio Ayala 792, cnr Tacuary. Classic
Paraguayan food in a classic Paraguayan restaurant -
it claims to be the oldest in the country. Service by the
bow-tied waiters is slow, but sometimes the best things
are worth waiting for. Mains from Gs35,000. Mon-Sat
9am-3pm & 7pm-midnight, Sun lunch only.
Ì Café de Acá Tte Vera 1390, cnr Dr Mora. A delightful
café with art on the walls, a bougainvillea-filled garden
and featuring delectable desserts, Italian coffee, artisan
Paraguayan snack foods and microbrewed Paraguayan ales.
You can also try mate and tereré here. It's out of the centre
behind Paseo Carmelitas on Av España. Daily 8am-11pm.
Ì Lido Bar Av Mariscal José Felix Estigarribia, cnr Chile.
Make this your first stop in Asunción to get a taste for
Paraguayan food and the locals. It is as central as you
can get - right in front of the Panteón de los Héroes - and
is packed day and night. It has a diner-style interior with
everyone sitting around the bar barking their orders at
gingham-capped waitresses who are a vision in peach.
Empanada Gs8000, mains Gs30,000. Daily 7.30am-1am.
Nat Salud Pettirossi 443, at Perú. Vegetarian restaurant
and health-food shop with more inventive options than
elsewhere in the city. Lunch buffet Gs29,000/kg. Mon-
Thurs 7am-6.30pm, Fri 7am-3pm.
Sukiyaki Constitución 763, at Pettirossi. Walkable from
the centre, towards Mercado Cuatro, this is a genuine sushi
restaurant that offers some of the best food in Asunción for
decent prices. Bento box Gs45,000. Closed Sun.
Taberna Española Ayolas 631, at Gral. Díaz. Excellent
tapas, hearty portions of paella and flowing sangría at this
cosy and eccentrically decorated Spanish restaurant. Plate
of mixed tapas Gs50,000. Open daily.
La Vienesa Alberdi, cnr Oliva. For a refined coffee-and-
cake stop, you can't do better than this upmarket café and
patisserie with lowbrow prices. Also does salads, sand-
wiches and cocktails and has wi-fi. Smoothie and cake
Gs20,000. Daily 7am-11pm.

ACCOMMODATION
For people on a budget, there is far more choice and
quality in the historic centre than Villa Mora. The capital
is also currently the only place in Paraguay to find back-
packer hostels. Breakfast, internet and/or wi-fi, a/c and
hot water is included unless otherwise stated.
Arandú Hostal 15 de Agosto 783, at Humaitá T 021 449
712, W aranduhostal.com. A new hostel in the owner's
refurbished family home, with lovely facilities including
robust generous bunks each with locker, a roof terrace with
great views west over th e city and c osy communal areas.
Dorms G s70,000 , rooms G s160,000
Black Cat Hostal Eligio Ayala 129, between Yegros and
Indepencia Nacional T 021 449 827, W hostelblackcat
.com. While the Black Cat - Paraguay's first backpacker
hostel - is shabbier than some of the newcomers, it boasts
all the features backpackers love, including a roof terrace
with barbecue and a/c in every room; there's even a small
pool. The mother-daughter outfit running the place speak
good English, provid e great cu stomer service an d can
organize tours. Dorms G s45,000 , rooms G s170,000
Hostel B&B Ñande Po'a Manuel Dominguez 489, cnr
México T 021 449 480, E [e-mail].
You are welcomed in as the “missing star” of this home of
a Uruguayan family (with limited English), which is more
of a B&B than a hostel. Set arou nd a verda nt courtyard in
a colonial-styl e building. Dorms G s60,000 , rooms (up to
three people) G s155,000
Ì El Jardín Hostal Azara 941, between EEUU and
Tacuary T 098 486 0340, E [e-mail].
Run by a creative Paraguayan-Swedish couple, whose
garden generates a convivial atmosphere between guests.
Rooms are adorned with interesting fabrics and Paraguayan
artesanía , while bathrooms have some of the best showers
around. Friendly policies, like no checkout time, and singles
not having to pay double for a private room (write rather
than use a booking websit e), set this place apart. Dorms
G s53,000 , rooms (for two) G s180,000
Ì Palmas del Sol España 202, at Tacuary T 021 449
485, W hotelpalmasdelsol.com. Reminiscent of complexes in
the Mediterranean, this German-run place offers incredible
value for the price, as well as a sanctuary from noisy, grimy

8

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Asunción has a thriving nightlife, especially at weekends,
though things only really get going after midnight. The
centre offers the coolest and most exciting places, while
the biggest live music events are held at the Jockey Club,
also known as the Hipódromo at Eusebia Ayala Km4.5
( T 021 553 376, W jcp.com.py).