Paraguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 687

PARAGUAY'S DIFFICULT NATURAL WONDERS
The immense range of flora and fauna in Paraguay should be drawing tourists from all over
the world; the Chaco is one of the best places in South America to see large mammals, while
the Atlantic Forests of eastern Paraguay are the most threatened natural habitat on the planet.
Paraguay also has a sizeable slice of the mighty Pantanal, a wildlife wonderland normally
associated with Brazil. Paraguay suffers from aggressive deforestation and encroaching agrarian
interests, but luckily, people are starting to catch on that this is a country that needs protecting.
All of the options below are well worth investigating, but many - in the Chaco in particular
- are notoriously di cult to access. Fauna Paraguay ( W faunaparaguay.com) provide an
impressive number of ecologically sensitive tours with extremely knowledgeable English-
speaking guides to suit pretty much any wildlife-related need (including all of the below). Many
of the Asunción-based tour companies (see p.696) will also arrange wildlife tours.
Central Chaco Lagoons Correctly the
Cuenca del Riacho Yacaré Sur, these are a
series of temporal saline lakes east of the
Mennonite colonies, whose presence
depends on rainfall in previous months. In
winter they may be occupied by ducks and
Chilean flamingos, while from September to
December, huge flocks of sandpipers and
plovers are attracted to the water. To visit
without a tour agency, get in touch with the
Mennonites (see p.709) who may be able to
provide transport, accommodation and food
(upwards of US$200 per day).
Laguna Blanca This is one of the most
beautiful and peaceful places in Paraguay,
with crystal-clear water offering much-
needed “beaches” in this landlocked country.
Activities such as birdwatching (with a chance
of seeing the world's rarest bird, the
white-winged nightjar), kayaking, snorkelling,
fishing and horseriding are available and
accommodation is either in cabins, or
camping. You are only allowed in with
prior arrangement, but it's all bookable
via W lagunablanca.com.py, and accessible
with public transport. Those particularly
interested in animals should get in touch with
conservation group Para la Tierra
( W paralatierra.org), who welcome people
who want to stay for longer as volunteers.
Bosque Mbaracayú This forest reserve,
consisting of over 640 square kilometres of
Atlantic Forest and cerrado habitat, is
accessible to tourists (though not cheap)
thanks to the Fundación Moises Bertoni
(Prócer Carlos Argüello 208, Asunción; T 021
608 740, T 034 720 147, W www.mbertoni
.org.py). It's home to over 400 bird species,
and 89 different mammals, including pumas
and jaguars. FMB run a lodge for tourists,
and you can hike, canoe, abseil or mountain
bike with guides. Buses from Asunción go to
Villa Ygatimi, 25km from the forest, where
FMB can pick you up (Gs10,000 to enter

forest; Gs200,000 per night B&B for two, or
Gs35,000 to camp; pickup from Villa Ygatimi
costs Gs250,000).
The Pantanal Paraguay's part of this
enormous marshland spanning Brazil and
Bolivia is di cult to reach, and not
tourist-friendly. However, thanks to its
remoteness, people who do make it here
will be rewarded with many of nature's
giants, including giant otters, giant
armadillos, giant tegus and giant anteaters.
Again, you're best off going with Fauna
Paraguay between April and September
- the roads are impassable at other times.
Parque Nacional San Rafael Set in 730
square kilometres of Atlantic Forest, this
national park contains some 300 species
of bird, along with big mammals such as
pumas, ocelots and tapirs, nestling in
a unique ecosystem where you'll also find
rare orchids. Pro Cosara ( T 076 829 5046,
W procosara.org) are the main NGO working
here and they can provide food and
accommodation (US$25/day full board in
cabins plus US$8 transportation into the
park from nearest town; minimum two-day
stay) as well as guided tours of the park.
If you need an English-speaking guide,
organize it through Fauna Paraguay.
Parque Nacional Teniente Encisco As this
national park is just off the Trans-Chaco,
almost at the Bolivian border, it's the most
accessible of the region's national parks. It was
established to protect a series of trenches
dating from the Chaco War and to conserve
the Chaco peccary. You may also see puma,
tapir and a host of endemic bird species. It is
possible to go it alone by taking a NASA bus
from Filadelfia (see p.709) - there is basic
accommodation available - but you'd need
supplies of everything, including ice. If you go
with Fauna Paraguay you'll get much more
out of it. The best time of year is May-Sept,
when temperatures are more manageable.

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