The Guianas - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 676

ÎLES DU SALUT
he ÎLES DU SALUT , 15km off the coast,
comprise three beautiful islands shaded
with coconut trees and surrounded by
azure waters: Île Royale , Île Saint-Joseph
and Île du Diable . Their English name
- Salvation Islands - is an ironic
misnomer, given their use as a penal
colony responsible for the deaths of over
50,000 of its 70,000 prisoners between
1852 and 1953. Thanks to Henri
Charrière's book, Papillon , which
recounts the horrors of life in the colony
and his various attempts at escape
(though it is now thought that he'd
incorporated other prisoners' exploits
into the story and passed them off as his
own), the islands are the country's most
popular attraction.

ACCOMMODATION
Budget travellers into swinging (in hammocks) can stay at
the carbets on the attractive beach off Av des Roches.
Accommodation is more limited than in Cayenne and
tends to be booked up weeks in advance if there's a rocket
launch due.
Hôtel Le Ballahou 1-3 Rue Amet-Martial T 594 220
022, W ballahou.com. Those who succeed in finding this
friendly hotel in the warren of tiny streets behind the
Camp Militaire will be rewarded with spic-and-span
en-suite rooms and eight studios fully equipped with
kitchen faci lities. Rec epti on open noon-2pm & 6-8pm.
Studios €70 , doubles €50
Résidence le Gros Bec 56 Rue D. Floch T 594 329 191,
E [e-mail]. Only three blocks from
the catamaran departure point for the Îles du Salut, this is
a brightly painted, family-friendly place off ering studios
equipped with kitchenettes. Studios €69.90
Typic Accueil 1 Résidence St Exupéry T 594 324 370,
E [e-mail]. This quiet, secure, family-run
establishment has five studios with a/c, TV, microwave
and en-suite facilities. Great if you have your own wheels;
otherwise all the way across town fro m the catamaran
launch. Minimum two night stay. Studios €50

7

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Most catamaran tours take in all three
of the islands; though the virtually
inaccessible Île du Diable is off-limits
to visitors, you can catch a glimpse of
the ruined prison buildings as you sail
past. It was once reserved for political
prisoners - most famously Alfred
Dreyfus, who was arrested but later
cleared for passing military secrets to
the Germans.
Île Royale , the main and most-visited
island, was used for administration and
housing common-law criminals. You can
peer at the ruins of old buildings and
go swimming either off the small pier
(on the opposite side of the island from
the boat landing) or in the small bay
sheltered from the sea by rocks. The
fearless wildlife is another attraction; you

EATING
You'll find a number of places to eat, drink and be reasonably
merry in Le Vieux Bourg, along Av du Général de Gaulle, and
there are some good options scattered around town.
Le Baraka 37 Av du Général de Gaulle T 594 323 323.
This inviting spot lit with Christmas lights serves Moroccan
tagines and the like from €15. Daily 12.30pm-11pm.
L'orchidée Off Av F. Kennedy, opposite the post o ce.
Heaped portions of delicious Vietnamese food. It's di cult
to go wrong with the phô or any of the noodle dishes.
Mains from €10. Daily noon-10.30pm.
Le Cupuaçu 38 Av du Général de Gaulle T 694 912 146.
Colourful Brazilian churrascaria serving sizzling skewers of
well-seasoned meats, as well as chicken and fish dishes.
Meals from €15. Daily noon-10pm.

ÎLES DU SALUT TOURS
One-day tours (from €42) include visits to Île Royale and Île Saint-Joseph, and while on
weekends it's possible to turn up and get a ticket, for weekdays you must make reservations in
advance. If you wish to stay overnight, make arrangements with the Royal Ti' Punch/Îles du
Salut operator, directly connected to the island's lodgings. Catamarans leave from Kourou's
appontement des pêcheurs (fishermen's jetty) at the end of Avenue du Général de Gaulle at
around 8-8.30am and depart the islands around 4pm.

La Hulotte T 594 323 381, W www.lahulotte
-guyane.fr.
Royal Ti'Punch/Îles du Salut T 594 321 100,
W ilesdusalut.com.

TOUR OPERATORS
Albatros T 594 321 612, E halliercatherine

@wanadoo.fr.