The Guianas - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 674

CROSSING INTO BRAZIL
From Cayenne, take bus #17 to Régina and then switch to bus #18 to Saint-Georges (check
timetable in advance). Do not drive between Cayenne and Saint-Georges at night or pick up
hitchhikers along the Régina/Saint-Georges road; French authorities periodically clamp down
on those seen to assist illegal immigrants. Saint-Georges is a small border town with a lively
Brazilian feel, used as the jumping-off point for Brazil and tours (see p.676) of local Amerindian
villages along the Oyapok River.
To cross over to Brazil, non-EU passport holders must get their passport stamped at the
Douane by the river (8am-6pm; closed for lunch). Then take one of the motorized canoes
across the river to Oiapoque in Brazil (15-20min; €4-6; negotiate price beforehand). Once
in Brazil, get your passport stamped by the Policia Federal ; follow the main street until you
see a road to your left with a church in its middle. The of ce is on the right side of the road,
past the church. Moneychangers operate on the Brazilian side of the river, but not in
Saint-Georges.
If travelling further into Brazil, there is a morning bus and an evening bus daily from
Oiapoque to Macapá (10hr); pack a sweater as they tend to crank up their a/c.
OVERNIGHT IN SAINT GEORGES
Chez Modestine T 594 370 013. Clean a/c en-suite
rooms in a t radi tional house on the main square; book
in advance. €45

7

Ilha do Sol T 694 407 311. Take a boat (5min) to the
tiny Ilha do Sol to swing a ha mmoc k at thei r car bet or
stay in a basic double. Doubles €25 , carbets €12

ROURA AND KAW
Some 75km east of Cacao, across the
heavily forested Kaw Hills, is an
Everglades-style swamp called MARAIS DE
KAW , which covers around one thousand
square kilometres. The surrounding hills
make for some stunning vistas -
especially when covered with mist during
the wet season - and this is an excellent
place to spot water birds, including
flamingos. Tour operators in Cayenne
such as JAL Voyages (see p.676) offer
wildlife-spotting boat trips along the
river, after-dark pirogue trips to spot black
caiman and overnight stays in a floating
carbet . When driving to Kaw, you pass
through the pleasant village of Roura,
where it's possible to arrange boat trips to
various destinations, including the Îlet la
Mère (see p.677).

Auberge de Camp Caïman PK 36, Route de Kaw T 594
307 277. In between Roura and Kaw, this eco-friendly
large wooden hostel with a library offers basic doubles
and a large carbet . Butterfly-catching, marsh walks and
caiman-spotting trips on dema nd. Meals available on
request. Closed Wed . Doubles €35 , carbets (including
hammock rental) €17
Ì Malou Route de Kaw T 694 210 712. A short distance
east of Roura, this new roadside eatery has a breezy
terrace overlooking the large garden where they grow
their own fruit for the fresh juices. The crêpes are perfec-
tion and there's a nice little sandwich selection too. Wed-
Sun 10am-5pm.

KOUROU
KOUROU is a sprawling, artificial town
with no discernible centre, built largely to
service the Centre Spatial Guyanais - the
space station that employs the majority of
its residents. If your timing is right, you
can witness one of the most impressive
spectacles you're ever likely to see: the
fiery passage of a rocket into space.
French Guiana's next biggest tourist
attraction - the Îles du Salut - can be
reached by catamaran from Kourou's jetty.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
Visitors to Kaw arrive either as part of an organized tour, by
rented car or via the limited TIG bus service.
By bus Bus #15 goes to Kaw from Cayenne via Roura
(Mon-Fri 2 daily; 2hr), and there are two additional daily
services from Roura to Cayenne (1hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
If staying overnight, arrangements must be made in advance;
Kaw is not a place to turn up on spec.

Centre Spatial Guyanais
The sight of the launch towers
surrounded by tropical forest at the