Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 60

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Sarkis Thames 1101, Villa Crespo T 011 4772 4911; map
p.59. Excellent tabbouleh, keppe crudo (raw meat with
onion - much better than it sounds) and falafel at this
popular restaurant serving a fusion of Armenian, Arab
and Turkish cuisine. Close to Palermo Viejo, and great value
for money (very popular so expect long queues). Daily
noon-3pm & 8pm-1am.

from the restaurant's famous and mostly bohemian clients,
and the very friendly owner makes sure everyone is happy.
Mains AR$55-90. Tues-Sat noon-3pm & 8pm-1am, Sun
noon-4pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
You'll find that Buenos Aires offers a lively nightlife every
day of the week. The only exception is perhaps on Monday,
when some venues, especially in the centre, tend to close.
Wednesday is known as “After O ce”, and you'll find the
city's bars and clubs packed from 6pm. Keep in mind that
Buenos Aires starts - and finishes - late, so clubs don't fill
up until the early hours. Check out What's Up Buenos Aires
( W whatsupbuenosaires.com) for up-to-date information
and articles on the city's cultural and nightlife happenings,
or Wipe ( W wipe.com.ar; Spanish only).

SAN TELMO AND AROUND
Brasserie Pétanque Defensa 596, San Telmo T 011
4342 7930, W brasseriepetanque.com; map p.55. Authentic
and chic French-owned brasserie, serving French classics
(onion soup, steak tartare, crème brûlée and even snails).
Weekday lunch deal AR$70 (main course and drink). Mon
noon-4pm, Tues-Sun noon-3pm & 8pm-1am.
Ì El Desnivel Defensa 855, San Telmo T 011 4300
9081, W parrillaeldesnivel.com.ar; map p.55. Classic San
Telmo parrilla with accessible prices, great meat and a
friendly, slightly rowdy atmosphere; popular with tourists.
Lomo steak AR$85. Mon 8pm-1am, Tues-Sun noon-3pm
& 8pm-1am.
Gran Parrilla del Plata Chile 594, San Telmo T 011
4300 8588, W parrilladelplata.com; map p.55. Excellent-
value steakhouse whose medallón de lomo (AR$105) has
to be one of the tenderest cuts in town. Mon-Sat noon-
3pm & 8pm-1am, Sun 8pm-1am.
El Obrero Caffarena 64, La Boca T 011 4362 9912,
W bodegonelobrero.com.ar; map p.55. With Boca Juniors
souvenirs on the walls and tango musicians moving from
table to table at weekends, the atmosphere at the hugely
popular and moderately priced El Obrero is as much a part
of the fun as the simple unfussy food ( lomo steak AR$45,
pasta dishes AR$36). Very popular, so prepare to queue
at weekends. Take a taxi as the local area can be unsafe.
Mon-Sat noon-3pm & 8pm-1am.
Parrilla 1880 Defensa 1665, San Telmo T 011 4307 2746;
map p.55. Extremely good parrilla joint, right opposite
Parque Lezama. Its walls are lined with photos and drawings

BARS AND PUBS
Bangalore Humboldt 1416, Palermo Viejo T 011 4779
2621; map p.59. Fine traditional pub in Palermo “Holly-
wood”, popular with locals, expats and tourists. Happy
hour until 10pm; pints and curries served. Daily.
Bar Británico Defensa, at Brasil, San Telmo T 011 4361
2107; map p.59. Old men, bohemians and night owls while
away the small hours in this traditional wood-panelled bar
overlooking Parque Lezama. 24hr.
Caracas Guatemala 4802, Palermo Viejo T 011 4776
8704; map p.59. Trendy Palermo Viejo venue attracting a
cool crowd. Has a lovely roof terrace and serves Venezuelan
food. Mon-Sat 6.30pm-4am.
Los Cardones Jorge Luis Borges 2180, Palermo T 011
4777 1112, W cardones.com.ar; map p.59. One of the best
peñas in town - a bar where traditional folk musicians
play. Wed-Sat from 9pm.
La Cigale 25 de Mayo 597, Centro T 011 4312 8275;
map p.55. One of Buenos Aires' most happening bars,
attracting an up-for-it crowd. Regularly hosts live music
and DJs. Mon-Fri from 6pm & Sat from 8pm.
Congo Honduras 5329, Palermo T 011 4833 5857; map
p.59. Sleek interiors and atmospheric lighting at this
popular hang-out. Particularly heaving in summer thanks
to a stunning outside area. Wed-Sat 8pm-5am.
Milión Paraná 1048, Recoleta T 011 4815 9925, W milion
.com.ar; map p.59. Grand bar housed in an early
twentieth-century townhouse. Overrun with gringos,
but a decent place to start the night and another venue
with a great garden. Mon-Fri 10am-late, Sat noon-late,
Sun 8pm-late.
La Poesía Chile 502, San Telmo T 011 4300 7340; map
p.55. Old-fashioned establishment that feels a bit like a
Spanish tapas bar. From the owners of the equally excellent
El Federal (Carlos Calvo 599), La Poesía serves three types
of artisan beer (AR$20-25) and does a wide range of
picada tasting platters (AR$55-105). Daily until 2am.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Astrid & Gastón Lafinur 3222 (near
Av del Libertador) T 011 4802 2991;
map p.59. A delicious high-end Peruvian
fusion restaurant that has branches all
over Latin America. Don't be put off by
the rather drab paint on the walls; the
food - much of it fish - is delicious and
delicate on the palate, with the ceviche
particularly recommended. One of the
more expensive restaurants in town, so
allow at least AR$350 per head with wine.
Book in advance. Mon-Sat 12.30-3pm &
8pm-late.