The Guianas - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 652

ACCOMMODATION
Oasis The budget-friendly sister to Rock View Lodge (see
below) is a 10min walk away. Just off the main road, it's
a popular stop for minibuses. Comprises spacious, airy
en-suite rooms with mosquito nets, a hammock be nab and
an eatery with sim ple, inexpensive meals. Doubles US $70 ,
hammocks US $15
Rock View Lodge W rockviewlodge.com. This plush
option has clean and comfortable en-suite rooms and is
set in large grounds with a swimming pool. Owned by
local character Colin Edwards, even if you don't stay here,
he will help arrange all manner of activities, including
visits to the nearby village of Wowetta. Wi-fi when the
generator is running. Triples m ake this o ption a little mo re
affordable for groups. Doubles US $300 , triples US $360

A ninety-minute drive from the
Research Centre is the Canopy Walkway
( W iwokramacanopywalkway.com), a
140m network of aluminium suspension
bridges set amid the treetops, 30m from
the forest floor. Its three observation
platforms provide excellent vantage
points to spot birds, howler monkeys and
other fauna within the forest canopy
- but only if you're there at dusk or
dawn, when animal life is at its most
active. An overnight stay at the luxurious
Atta Rainforest Camp , at the foot of the
canopy walk trail, costs US$260 for a
room, including all meals, the canopy
user fee and a trained guide. Day visitors
pay G$5000. Booking in advance is vital.

7

Yupukari and Caiman House
Yupukari ( W rupununilearners.org) is a
mostly Makushi village of around 500
inhabitants, a couple of hours' drive along
a rutted dirt track from Annai; it's also
possible to reach it by boat along the
Rupununi River from Guinep Landing,
21km west of Annai (2hr). The main
attraction here is the Caiman House Field
Station , whose main purpose is to study
the black caiman. If you're lucky, you will
join the local caiman research crew in the
evening when they go out to capture, weigh,
measure and tag the fearsome creatures.
ACCOMMODATION
Caiman House This guesthouse has en-suite rooms with
mosquito nets, a hammock benab and some of the best

Surama Village and Ecolodge
A 45-minute drive west of the Canopy
Walkway is the turn-off for Surama
Village ( T 548 9262, W suramaecolodge
.com). A spread-out Makushi settlement
of some 300 people and thatch-roofed
huts connected by dusty paths, Surama
is an ecotourism success story. You can
stay in one of the two ecolodges in the
village, each consisting of several
traditional huts (rooms US$150),
learning about medicinal plants from
local guides, or hiking up Surama
Mountain (230m) and wildlife-
watching along the Burro Burro River.
Alternatively, camp in one of the two
basic camps along the river (US$15)
and go jungle trekking.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Karanambu Lodge W karanambulodge
.com. Sitting in a clearing near the Rupununi
River, this one-of-a-kind lodge consists of six
luxurious cabins. A bell summons guests to
the table, presided over by the formidable
82-year-old Diane McTurk - a local legend,
best known for her work with orphaned
giant river otters. Wild animals abound in
the savannah, wetlands and rainforest
around the lodge, and there's a good
chance of seeing jaguars, giant anteaters,
tapirs and caimans during guided walks and
river trips. The meals are excellent, the rate is
inclusive of everything and the staff are just
wonderful. You can either fly into
Karanambu or take a boat from Guinep
landing (1hr 30min); Karanambu is 30min by
boat from Caiman House. Cabañas US

Annai and Rupertee
The first Makushi village you reach after
emerging from the jungle is Rupertee ,
famous for its craft shop (if it's closed,
ask around for Gloria Duarto) where you
can pick up carvings made of a local red
hardwood, as well as intricate woven
goods and bows and arrows (still very
much used for hunting in these parts).
Jeep tracks and footpaths connect it to
Annai , around 2km off the main road -
a compact, attractive village of around
300 people. Across the road from Oasis
(see below) is the Uncle Dennis Trail
(45min) that snakes up the forest-covered
hill; from the top there's a splendid view
of the savannah.

$200