Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
INDEPENDENT TRAVEL IN THE INTERIOR
Independent travel in Guyana's interior requires forward planning, time and flexibility, but it's
possible to visit every single attraction mentioned in this chapter without having to go with a
tour operator. To visit most Amerindian villages (barring Annai and Rupertee), you would first
have to get permission from either the Amerindian Affairs o ce (see p.648) in Georgetown or
its equivalent in Lethem if coming over from Brazil. Guyana takes the needs of its indigenous
communities seriously and you can't just turn up, though if you've booked accommodation
there in advance, that automatically takes care of things. If travelling overland, it is essential
that you have your passport with you, as there are several police checkpoints in the interior.
GETTING AROUND
By plane see p.646.
By minibus Georgetown-Lethem minibuses can
stop en route at Annai or drop you at the turn-offs to
Surama or the Iwokrama Research Centre and Canopy
Walkway (make arrangements to be picked up from
the turnoff or walk in). Since minibuses tend to over-
flow with passengers and luggage, to board a bus
from a location in between Lethem and Georgetown,
reserve a seat in advance by calling the minibus
company directly or through your lodgings. Take your
passport with you, as there are several police check-
points along the way.
By 4WD and boat There is no public transport from
the main “highway” to remote lodges and villages,
so you have to hire a 4WD (around US$200/day; less
for short distances) or motorbike (see below). In the
rainy season, you will find yourself travelling more
by motorboat. 4WDs are easy to arrange in Lethem,
but all lodges can help you with onward travel
arrangements.
By motorbike The least expensive way of getting
around the Rupununi is on the back of someone's
motorbike. Most people own one, and wherever you
may be staying, it's always possible to arrange onward
transport by motorbike just by asking around. It's
considerably cheaper than going by 4WD, especially if
you're a solo traveller: several hours' ride or hiring
someone to take you around for a day will set you back
no more than US$40. You have to travel light, though!
By bicycle Most Amerindians in the Rupununi cycle
long distances on their sturdy, fixed-gear Brazilian
bikes. While cycling from Georgetown to Lethem has
been done by several intrepid travellers, there is a
long stretch of uninhabited jungle between Linden
and Kurupukari, and you have to carry all the water
you need. Cycling around the Rupununi Savannah is
a possibility in the dry season, though.
7
Iwokrama Research Centre and
Canopy Walkway
The pristine, 400-square-kilometre
Iwokrama Rainforest is home to
a staggering 474 bird species,
130 different mammals, 420 types of
fish and 132 species of reptile. It's
possible to stay at the eight attractive
solar-powered riverside cabins at the
Research Centre itself (rooms US$120;
meals $39/day; T 225 1504,
W
jaguar, tapir, ocelot, puma, peccary and
anaconda. In the heart of the country lies
Guyana's only official nature reserve: the
vast IWOKRAMA RAINFOREST , known for
the incredible biodiversity of its plant,
bird and animal species. Beyond
Iwokrama, dense jungle dramatically
gives way to the RUPUNUNI SAVANNAH ,
Guyana's cowboy country - scrubland and
grassland that stretches as far as the eye
can see, punctuated with giant anthills,
the odd cattle ranch and a smattering
of thatched roofs, which announce the
presence of an Amerindian village. Here
you can sling your hammock in the
hospitable villages of Annai, Yupukari,
Shulinab and Nappi, linger in the friendly
frontier town of Lethem or go wildlife-
spotting from one of the local ecolodges.
The savannah's grasslands abound with
giant anteaters, while the many rivers are
home to the black caiman, giant river
otter and aparaima.
iwokrama.org), an internationally
funded project to research forest
management and sustainable
development, with active participation
from local Amerindian communities.
Visitors share lodgings and meals
with visiting biologists, botanists
and journalists, and can take part in
visits to nearby Amerindian villages,
night-time caiman spotting, and
multi-day excursions into the jungle
and up Turtle Mountain.
 
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