Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 59

Juices from AR$17 and salads AR$38. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm
& Sat 10.30am-5pm.

1

PALERMO, RECOLETA AND RETIRO
Che Lulu Trendy Hotel Pasaje Emilio Zola 5185, at
Godoy Cruz, Palermo Viejo T 011 4772 0289, W chelulu
.com; map p.59. On a colourful pasaje in Palermo,
Che Lulu offers a down-to-earth and relaxed experience.
AR$300
Cypress In Costa Rica 4828, at Borges T 011 4833 5834,
W cypressin.com; map p.59. Sleek B&B, with designer
features and a neat location in the heart of Palermo's
“Soho” area. AR$420
Guido Palace Hotel Guido 1780, at Callao T 011 4812
0674; map p.59. This 60-room hotel is an affordable,
no-frills option in upmarket Recoleta, near th e cemete ry.
Triples and quadruple rooms are also available. AR$350

PALERMO, RECOLETA AND RETIRO
Bio Humboldt 2192 T 011 4774 3880; map p.59.
Vegetarian restaurant with lots of wholesome ingredients
- wholemeal empanadas , quinoa risotto, tofu salad and
so on - with a good-value ($55) lunch with drink. Organic
wine and beer are also served. Daily 9am-1am.
Ì Club Eros Uriarte 1609, Palermo Viejo T 011 4832
1313; map p.59. Fun, noisy cantina at a neighbourhood
sports and social club, offering Argentine standards at
bargain prices. Daily noon-4pm and 8pm-midnight.
La Cocina Pueyrredón 1508, Recoleta T 011 4825 3171;
map p.59. Tiny budget place serving locro (a filling corn
stew from the northeast of Argentina) and a selection of
delicious Catamarca-style empanadas . Mon-Sat noon-
4pm & 7pm-midnight.
Cumaná Rodriguez Peña 1149, Retiro; map p.59. Popular
with students and o ce workers, this is a good place to
try mate , served from 4pm to 7.30pm with a basket of
crackers. There's also a selection of provincial food, such
as empanadas and cazuelas (casseroles).
Ì Don Julio Guatemala 4699, Palermo Viejo T 011
4831 9564; map p.59. Excellent parrilla with choice cuts
of meat, a good wine list and smart, e cient service.
Lomo , fries, salad and wine will set you back AR$200. Daily
noon-4pm & 8pm-late.
Ì Freddo Branches throughout the city, including Alto
Palermo Shopping and Armenia 1618, W freddo.com.ar;
map p.59. Buenos Aires' best ice-cream chain. Dulce de
leche fans will be in heaven, and the passionfruit mousse
flavour ( maracuyá mousse ) is superb. Prices from AR$22.
Daily 10am till late.
Kentucky Santa Fe 4602, Palermo Viejo T 011 4773
7869; map p.59. A Buenos Aires institution that's been
around since 1942, serving excellent pizzas and
empanadas. Expect old-school waiters in white shirts and
bow ties, and a grungy clientele. The empanadas are large
and worth the higher than normal price. Daily noon-4pm
& 8pm-late.
Krishna Malabia 1833, Palermo Viejo T 011 4833 4618;
map p.59. Tiny bohemian spot on Plaza Palermo Viejo run
by the International Society for Krishna Consciousness
and serving tasty vegetarian Indian food. Go for the mixed
thali with a ginger lemonade. Tues-Sun noon-4pm &
8pm-midnight.
El Preferido de Palermo Borges, at Guatemala,
Palermo Viejo T 011 4774 6585; map p.59. Fun,
pulpería -style diner with bottles and cans packing the
shelves and hams hanging from the ceiling. Menu
choices include a lentil and bacon stew and milanesa
(breaded escalope) with potatoes. Mon-Sat noon-4pm
& 8pm-late.

EATING
Buenos Aires has a busy, increasingly diverse, restaurant
scene. Many restaurants offer a good-value menú del día
(lunchtime set menu) on weekdays, usually including a
drink; this is an excellent way to sample the best of BA's
restaurants at much lower prices. It is wise to book ahead
at the more popular places.

CENTRAL BUENOS AIRES
Cbc - California Burrito Co. Lavalle 441 T 011 4328
3056, W californiaburritoco.com; map p.55. Busy central
burrito joint, ideally placed for lunch on the go. White-flour
tortillas are packed with seemingly endless combinations
of fresh ingredients; portions are enormous. Three burrito
and drink special from AR$40. Mon-Fri noon-11pm, Sat
& Sun noon-7pm.
Las Cuartetas Av Corrientes 838 T 011 4326 0171;
map p.55. Big, brightly lit theatreland pizzeria, opposite
the Gran Rex. Large pizzas from AR$70. Mon-Sat noon-
1am, Sun 8pm-midnight.
La Giralda Corrientes 1453 T 011 4371 3846; map p.55.
Brightly lit and austerely decorated Corrientes café,
famous for its chocolate espeso con churros (thick hot
chocolate with fritters, AR$40). A perennial hangout for
students and intellectuals, and a good place to observe
the porteño passion for conversation. Mon-Sat 7am-2am.
La Gran Taberna Combate de los Pozos 95, Montserrat
T 011 4951 7586; map p.55. A popular, bustling and
down-to-earth restaurant a block from the Congreso. The
vast, reasonably priced menu offers a mixture of Spanish
dishes, including a good selection of seafood, porteño
staples and a sprinkling of more exotic dishes such as ranas
a la provenzal (frogs' legs with parsley and garlic, AR$205).
Many dishes are large enough to share. Mains AR$60-85.
Daily noon-4pm & 8pm-2am.
Pura Vida Reconquista 516 T 011 4393 0093; map p.55.
American-style juice and health-food bar serving a mainly
business clientele looking for an alternative to beef.
Lunch specials include soup and half a wrap (AR$42).