Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE GALÁPAGOS IN DANGER
The boom in tourism to the Galápagos has its downside. Visitors have done huge damage to
the fragile ecosystem and the islands were placed on the
UNESCO Danger List
in April 2007.
The key problems included: uncontrolled immigration; high tra
c levels; an inadequate
sewage system; invasive species such as livestock, pets and fruits; and overfishing.
The Ecuadorian government took action by deporting thousands of illegal Ecuadorian
immigrants back to the mainland, using satellite technology to stop illegal fishing
and restricting tourist arrivals. There are also plans to have 100 percent renewable
energy on the islands by 2017. Isabela, Floreana and Santiago have seen goat
extermination programmes, with more than 250,000 killed since 2006. Other harmful
invasive species are fruit flies, fire ants and rats, the last of which have proved the most
di
cult to exterminate.
Emergency measures were deemed successful, and to the dismay of scientists and
environmentalists the Galápagos Islands were removed from the UNESCO danger list in
July 2010. The islands' problems are far from over and tourists can help by following the strict
rules on waste disposal and recycling, reporting malpractice and making donations to the
Charles Darwin Foundation (
W
darwinfoundation.org).
6
Sally Lightfoot crabs; flamingos also
abound in the lagoons inland. Tour
operators often combine a visit here
with other excursions such as North
Seymour (see p.635).
ACCOMMODATION
Santa Cruz has the largest selection of accommodation on
the islands and it's even possible to find budget rooms in
peak periods. If you have your eye on a specific hotel, book
in advance as places fill up fast. Prices start from $15-25/
person for budget rooms up to $100-200/night in the
higher-range hotels, mainly filled by tour groups.
Casa Natura
Petrel, at Isla Floreana
T
02 246 9846,
W
vianatura.com. To enjoy more comfort in charming
surroundings, stay at this friendly hotel 10min out of
town and
enjo
y the buffet breakfast and small pool at
the back.
$145
España
Thomas de Berlanga, at 12 de Febrero
T
05 252
6108,
W
hotelespanagalapagos.com. One of the most
popular budget hotels, wit
h nea
t rooms around a colourful
courtyard with hammocks.
$30
Estrella del Mar
12 de Febrero. The cheapest hotel on
the waterfront has great views
and
simple rooms with
a/c and cable TV. It fills up quickly.
$50
Gardner
Thomas de Berlanga, at 12 de Febrero
T
05
252 6108,
W
gardnergalapagoshotel.com. Next door to
España
, with elegant decor
ation
, spacious rooms and
breakfast included. A/c extra.
$35
Lirio del Mar
Islas Plaza, at Thomas de Berlanga
T
05
252 6212. Another dependable budget opti
on w
ith a small
terrace but basic, no-frills rooms. A/c extra.
$30
Las Palmeras
Thomas de Berlanga, at Islas Plaza
T
05
252 6139,
W
hotelpalmeras.com.ec. This is one of the best
mid-range options in town. Rooms are plushly decorated
and there's a large pool on th
e ter
race and even a small
disco downstairs at weekends.
$85
Salinas
Islas Plaza, at Thomas de Berlanga
T
05 252
6212. Across from
Lirio del Mar
, this is a well-established
budget hotel. Ground-floor rooms are very basic,
wit
h
more comfort and higher prices on the upper floors.
$35
EATING AND DRINKING
Puerto Ayora is a very pleasant resort with a wide
range of restaurants, mostly in the slightly higher range
($15-25 for dinner). There are also quite a few cheap
places, particularly the
kioskos
along pedestrianized
Charles Binford, where you can get a good meal for $5.
Some restaurants also do set lunches and dinners for
just $3.50.
Café Hernan
Darwin, at Av Baltra. This waterfront
favourite does the best pizza in town (mains $6-10) and
indulgent desserts such as black forest gateau.
Chifa Asia
Darwin, at Binford. Backpackers flock to
the
kioskos
restaurants on this street to grab a delicious
budget meal. For something a little spicier try this popular
Chinese. Mains $4-6.
Chocolate
Binford. Very good-value set lunch ($5) and
more expensive specialities such as
ceviche
and beef in
chocolate sauce.
El Descanso del Guía
Darwin (opposite the ferry
docks). A popular option for locals to fill up on Ecuadorian
staples such as
bolon
(fried plantain ball) for breakfast
and chicken stew or a variety of white fish for lunch.
The juices are excellent and the two-course set meals
are well above average and cost just $3-4.
Ì
Il Giardino
Darwin, at Charles Binford. The town's
most popular gourmet restaurant does not disappoint,
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