Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 628

WHERE TO SEE WILDLIFE IN THE GALÁPAGOS
Blue-footed boobies Most easily viewed
on North Seymour, Punta Pitt (San Cristóbal),
Española or Genovesa.
Frigatebirds Try Seymour Norte, Punta Pitt
or Española.
Galápagos penguins Colonies on
Floreana, Bartolomé, Fernandina and Isabela.
Giant tortoises Try the Charles Darwin
Station on Santa Cruz or the larger breeding
centres on Isabela and San Cristóbal.
Green sea turtles The best-known nesting
sites are Bartolomé, Tortuga Bay (Santa Cruz)
and Gardner Bay (Española).
Iguanas The marine variety is found on all
major islands; see their land cousins on
Seymour Norte, South Plaza or Santa Fé.

Sea lions To see them underwater,
the best snorkelling spots are Champion
Island (Floreana) and La Isla de los
Lobos (San Cristóbal). Or walk among
a colony at South Plaza or La Lobería
(San Cristóbal). Males are territorial,
so keep your distance.
Sharks Docile white-tipped and
black-tipped reef sharks are best
viewed off Floreana, North Seymour,
Bartolomé and Leon Dormido
(San Cristóbal), while hammerhead
sharks are mainly seen by divers (also
at Leon Dormido).
Waved albatross Exclusively found on
Española from April to November.

6

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
There are various attractions close to
Puerto Ayora but to see them you need
to take the Bay Tour ($35 from most local
operators). The tour takes in La Lobería,
where you can snorkel with sea lions,
Playa de los Perros, where marine iguanas
and various birds are seen, Las Tintoreras,
channels where sharks are often found,
and Las Grietas (see opposite).
A fifteen-minute walk east of town is
the Charles Darwin Research Station
(daily 7am-6pm; free; T 05 252 6146,
W

and pick up day-trips locally ($50-150/day). Doing it this
way, it's possible to spend a week on the islands for less
than $1200 total, including flights.

GETTING AROUND
By plane The airline EMETEBE (Santa Cruz T 05 252 6177,
San Cristóbal T 05 252 0615, Isabela T 05 252 9255;
W emetebe.com) flies small eight-seater planes between
San Cristóbal, Baltra and Isabela (several times per week;
$160 one-way or $260 return, plus $15 taxes).
By ferry Daily services on small launches connecting
Santa Cruz with San Cristóbal and Isabela (all routes $25
one-way; 2hr-2hr 30min). The ferries leave Isabela at 6am
and San Cristóbal at 7am, and depart Santa Cruz for both
islands at 2pm. There are usually two boats, but you should
book one day in advance at a registered agent in the main
ports. Note that it's a bumpy ride, particularly at 2pm.

darwinfoundation.org), which contains
an information centre and a museum.
The highlight is the giant tortoise
enclosure where you can view the
Galápagos giants close-up. Of the original
fourteen subspecies, eleven have survived.
“Lonesome George” was the most famous
resident until his death in 2012 meant
the extinction of his Pinta island
subspecies. Note that the station gets
quite busy with tour groups so come
early if possible, and you can actually see
more tortoises at the breeding centres in
San Cristóbal and Isabela.
If you're in Puerto Ayora at the
beginning or end of your trip and want
to kill a few hours, then the best option
is Tortuga Bay . Follow the trail from the
western edge of town along a paved path
through cactus forest (a 45min walk with
little shade). The first bay is not actually
Tortuga Bay, but one of the longest

ISLA SANTA CRUZ
This is the most developed island in the
Galápagos and its capital PUERTO AYORA
is the central tourism hub where most
visitors arrive. It's by no means the most
interesting island, but the central location
and wide range of hotels, restaurants and
tour operators make it the best base to
explore surrounding islands.

Puerto Ayora
In Puerto Ayora you can arrange tours
and pick up last-minute deals. A visit to
the Charles Darwin Research Station to
see the tortoises is worth it, and there are
some interesting short hikes out of town.