Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 625

the bay gives the town a vibrant feel.
Note that the town gets very busy on
weekends during the whale-watching
season (June-Sept), so booking
accommodation in advance at that time
is advisable.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Buses drop passengers by the terminal on the
main road, General Córdova, from where it's a short walk
to the waterfront. Alternatively you can take a tricycle taxi
($0.50).
Destinations There are regular buses to Jipijapa (hourly;
1hr 30min), where you change to get to Guayaquil, La
Libertad (daily; 3hr) or Salinas; Manta (hourly; 2hr). Reina
del Camino ( T 05 230 0207) offers comfortable secure
services to Quito (8am and 8pm; 10hr).
Tourist information The local iTur o ce on Av Machalilla,
at Atahualpa (open daily; E [e-mail]),
is two blocks inland and has plenty of leaflets and attentive
service.

Patacón Pisa'o General Córdoba. For something different,
try Colombian specialities such as arepas at this friendly
little place where mains are $3-5.
Restaurant Carmita Stands out from the cluster of
restaurants along the Malecón with a great selection of
seafood (mains $5) in a polished setting.
Ì The Whale Café At the south end of Malecón, this is
a great place to eat and chat. The friendly American owners
whip up everything from Thai noodles to pancakes and
veggie specialities for around $6-9. Home-made bread for
breakfast too.

6

PARQUE NACIONAL MACHALILLA
Ecuador's only coastal national park was
set up in 1979 to preserve the rapidly
disappearing tropical dry forest that
once stretched north all the way to
Costa Rica. It's a dramatic setting with
thickly forested hills crowned by
candelabra cacti, dropping down to
pristine, peaceful beaches. The park
headquarters (daily 8am-5pm; T 05
230 0102) is based in Puerto López,
opposite the market, just off the town's
main road. This is where you pay
your entrance fee (valid for five days;
mainland only $12; Isla de la Plata only
$15; combined ticket $20).

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Itapoa Malecón T 099 314 5894, W hosteltrail
.com/hosteriaitapoa. North of town, these Brazilian-run
cabins set i in a small garden are an endearing budget hide-
away. $20
Ì Hosteria Mandala T 05 230 0181, W hosteria
mandala.info. North of town along the Malecón is this
very popular travellers' option with beachfront cabins set
in beautiful garden s, pl us a games room, small library and
a good restaurant. $45
Hosteria Nantu Malecón T 099 781 4636. This new
hotel is excellent value, offering mid-range rooms at a
low price. Firm beds, hot water as w ell as a small pool and
games room to keep you busy. $30
Piedra del Mar T 05 230 0011. Boutique style at budget
prices at Puerto Lopez's newest hotel. The colonial-style
courtyard, pebble-dashed walls and small pool mark this
out as the most interesting option in the centre of town.
$50
Ruta del Sol Malecón, at Mariscal Sucre T 05 230 0236.
Comfortable hotel on south end of the Malecón with
well-equipped rooms with a/c, hot w ater, cable TV, restau-
rant, postal service and friendly staff. $30
Sol Inn Juan Montalvo, at Eloy Alfaro T 05 230 0248.
The basic, wooden cabins and laidback vi be are ideal fo r
those o n a t ight budget. Camping/person $3 , dorms $6 ,
doubles $14

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The best place to explore the park's dry
forest is Agua Blanca , a village inhabited
by some 280 indigenous people and
an important archeological site of the
Manteño culture that lived here from
800 to 1500 AD. Getting to Agua Blanca
involves either taking a bus north from
Puerto López and then walking the
unpleasant 5km trail up a dirt track,
or hiring a mototaxi ($5 one-way,
$10 return). he museum houses an
interesting collection of sculptures,
funeral urns and pickled snakes. A guided
tour ($5) includes museum entry
followed by a two-hour forest walk.
Highlights include the towering ceibos,
barbasco and fragrant Palo Santo trees
whose wood is burnt as incense and to
repel mosquitoes. Take in the spectacular
views up to San Sebastián before a
refreshing soak in a pungent but relaxing
sulphur pool, considered sacred by local
indigenous people.

EATING AND DRINKING
Espuma del Mar The decor is a bit tacky but this spacious
restaurant does most dishes well, from breakfasts to snacks
and evening meals. Mains $4-5.