Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 623

TOUR OPERATORS
Carpe Diem Guido Chiriboga, at Rocafuerte T 04 206 0043.
Offers a wide range of tours - everything from kayaking,
horseriding and snorkelling, to organized tours of Machalilla
and even the jungle.
Sweet Surf C Quatro T 099 738 9089. Run by a friendly
Swedish-Ecuadorian couple, Sweet Surf offers surfboard
rentals for $15/day ($4/hr) and 2hr lessons for $15, as well
as tours ranging from day-trips to a week-long surf tour
of the coast.

It has t hree levels of rooms and you won't find a cheaper
option. $16

EATING
You're spoilt for choice on where to eat, particularly seafood.
Avoid the seafood stalls, nicknamed “Cevichelandia”, as
sanitation is a problem. Salinas' nightlife hots up in high
season.
Amazon Malecón T 04 277 3671. International cuisine in
a rustic ambience with mains for around $6-10.
La Bella Italia Malecón T 04 277 1361. For a break from
Ecuadorian fare, watch mouth-watering pasta and pizza
prepared in front of you in this comfortable restaurant -
and then devour. Mains $4-7.
La Ostra Nostra Eloy Alfaro, at Las Almendras T 04 277
4028. Choose from a wide range of seafood, soups and
meat (mains $5-10) at this extremely popular restaurant
out towards Chipipe. Oysters ($12 per dozen) are a particular
speciality.

6

ACCOMMODATION
Montañita has a huge amount of accommodation and
where you stay depends mainly on how much sleep you
want to get. You can find a basic room for $5-7/person,
but bear in mind the centre is often very noisy and at
weekends partying continues until after dawn. The north
end is quieter with the best-quality mid-range accommo-
dation. Prices double on high season weekends and it's
hard to find a room in the centre. You can negotiate prices
in low season.
Abad Lounge Av Costanera, at Malecón T 04 230 7707.
Right on the beach, this new family-run hote l has tidy
rooms, many with sea views and balconies. $20
Ì Casa del Sol T 099 248 8581, W casadelsolsurfcamp
.com. Walk north all the way to the point to this very
popular hangout run by a Californian surfer. The rooms are
bright and breezy, and th ere's a great restaurant and bar
area. Sea view costs extra. $40
El Centro de Mundo Malecón, at Rocafuerte T 099 728
2831. Look no further for cheap, basic rooms than this
three-storey, wooden beachfront building, just to the
right of f the jun ction of Rocafuerte with the beach. Dorms
$3.50 , doubles $14
Charos Malecón between 15 de Mayo & Rocafuerte
T 04 206 0044, W charoshostal.com. Just inland to the
left of the beachfront. This is the most comfortable place
to stay in the c entr e, with a/c rooms, a bar, restaurant
and small pool. $45
Kamala Hostería T 099 942 3754, W kamala-hosteria
.minihostels.com. Escape the noise of Montañita comple-
tely at this hippy haven just north of Manglaralto. The
individual cabins are set around a small swimming pool
in front of t he be ach and there's also a bar, restaurant and
dive school. $30
Hostal Pakaloro Av Costanera at the north end of
Chiriboga T 04 206 0092. A great budget deal, featuring
new ly refurbished rooms with private bath and cable TV.
$18
Paradise South T 04 290 1185. For something
quieter and more upmarket, go north of town (past
the second bridge) to enjoy the comfortable thatched
cottag es a nd large lawns of this tranquil, welcoming
place. $25

MONTAÑITA
Perhaps there should be a sign at the
entrance to MONTAÑITA that reads:
“You are now leaving Ecuador”. Such is
the international vibe that you could be
anywhere. At first sight, the town feels
like countless backpacker havens, but
whether you love it or hate it, you can't
deny the place's infectious energy. The
surfing contingent has been joined in
recent years by hippies and partygoers,
making it the coast's most buzzing resort
for budget travellers. Many people stay
for months, while others get out after
a couple of excessive nights - if you're
seeking a relaxing beach break, go
elsewhere. Surfers can enjoy rideable
breaks most of the year, frequently
2-3m on good days. It's not the best
place to learn but there are plenty of
experienced teachers. There's a renowned
international surf competition around
Carnaval (Feb/March).
ARRIVAL
By bus The bus stop is a couple of blocks inland from
the beach on the corner of Rocafuerte. Comfortable CLP
buses leave Guayaquil at 5am, 1pm and 5pm (3hr 30min).
If you can't catch one of these, take a bus from Guayaquil to
Salinas (hourly; daytime only) and ask the driver to drop
you at Santa Elena (1hr) to catch a connection. Buses north
to Puerto Lopez pass hourly (1hr). For Quito, go to Manta
or Puerto Lopez and change.