Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 616

Cevicheria Saboreame Malecón. The best seafood in
town according to locals - and they should know. Seafood
soups and encocado , all delicious. Mains $3-5.
Coco Bar Javier Santos. On the main street leading to the
beach, this is the hub of Canoa's nightlife - dead during
the week but hot at weekends and in high season, with
a packed dancefloor and free-flowing cocktails.
Ì Surf Shak Malecón. This American-owned place is
fast turning into the centre of the expat community in
Canoa. Choose from big breakfasts, big burgers, pizzas
and fresh coffee. Wi-fi is available as well as plenty of
advice on tours from Pete the owner. Mains $3-6.

mangroves inhabited by abundant birdlife,
including a colony of frigate birds to rival
those found in the Galápagos.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat It's a short walk to the passenger ferry dock,
which has regular boats speeding across the bay to San
Vicente, from where you can continue north up the coast.
By bus Buses to the terminal run up and down Malecón.
There are regular services to and from Portoviejo, Manta
and Guayaquil, and four a day from Quito (or travel via
Pedernales). Reina del Camino is the biggest bus company
with the best services.
By taxi There are plenty of tricycle taxis to get around
town (most fares $0.50-$1).

6

BAHÍA DE CARÁQUEZ AND
AROUND
The most dramatic location of Ecuador's
coastal resorts, BAHÍA DE CARÁQUEZ
sits on a slim sand peninsula jutting out
from the mouth of the River Chone into
the Pacific. The city, known simply as
Bahía to locals, endured two disasters in
1998, when the El Niño rains washed
away roads and triggered massive
landslides before an earthquake in August
destroyed two hundred buildings and
left twenty people dead. The city
recovered, however, and introduced a
wide-ranging environmental programme,
converting itself into an “eco-city” with
recycling, sustainable development and
reforestation. The result is that, unlike
many of Ecuador's resorts, Bahía is a
clean and pleasant place to stroll around.
The completion of an impressive new
bridge (the longest in the country) across
the bay has improved access to Bahía,
and made journeying up and down the
coast easier.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The new tourist information o ce
is on Bolívar, at Malecón ( T 05 269 1044). The next best
thing is to visit Guacamayo Tours (see below).
Tour operators The Chirije archeological site can be
visited through Bahía Dolphin Tours (Bolívar 1004; T 05
269 2097, W bahiadolphintours.com), which owns the
site. A half-day nature tour with Guacamayo Tours (Bolívar
902, at Arenas; T 05 269 1412, W guacamayotours.com)
costs $25/person.

ACCOMMODATION
Most budget travellers prefer to stay in Canoa, but Bahía
is a pleasant alternative. Accommodation ranges from
cheap and basic to rather overpriced at the higher end.
Hotels fill up quickly during high season (Dec-April) and
on national holidays.
Bahia Bed and Breakfast Inn Ascazubi 316, at Morales
T 05 269 0146. The best rock-bottom budget option in tow n,
with basic rooms with fans and cable TV in the lounge. $10
Ì Hostal Coco Bongo Intriagi, at Arenas T 098 544
0978, W cocobongohostal.com. Run by a friendly Aussie
lady, this converted house overlooking the park has rooms
with hot water, private bath, wi-fi and cable TV. It´s a good

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he Museo Banco Central (Wed-Sat
10am-5pm, Sun 11am-3pm; $1) has
a very good collection of pre-Columbian
artefacts including tools, gold pectorals
and ceramics. The Mirador La Cruz ,
a large cross above the south end of town,
offers wonderful views over the city and
surrounding bay. Some 15km south of
town is the Chirije archeological site ,
which has countless ancient artefacts such
as ceramics and burial sites dating from
500 BC. Inland from Bahía, the River
Chone has some excellent unspoilt

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
La Herradura Bolívar, at Daniel Hidalgo
T 05 269 0266, W laherradurahotel.com.
At the northwest end of town, this
charming old Spanish house is a delight.
Nooks and crannies are filled with colonial
artefacts from wagon wheels and saddles
to statues and artwork. Rooms are
comfortable with a/c and cable TV, and
the restaurant is renowned as one of the
best in town. Book in ad van ce, 50 percent
discount in low season. $80