Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 608

YASUNÍ ITT PROJECT
In 2007, Rafael Correa's government launched one of its most ambitious and innovative projects,
Yasuní ITT . The basic idea is that Ecuador will be paid around $3.6 billion over thirteen years
in exchange for not drilling the estimated one billion barrels of oil in the Ishpingo, Tambococha
and Tiputini (ITT ) fields under Yasuní National Park, a biodiversity hotspot. The government's
reasoning is that oil has been a key income for Ecuador for the past thirty years and, now that
supplies are dwindling, there is increasing financial pressure to drill under protected rainforest.
To resist this pressure, the country deserves compensation for preserving a unique biosphere,
protecting indigenous communities and helping efforts to curb global warming.
Initially, the project received a very favourable response from international media and
governments. However, in the global economic crisis, it has proved di cult to get firm
commitments to invest. President Correa has also been reluctant to accept conditions on how
the money is spent. At the time of writing, the project succeeded in raising the initial $100
million set by the president as essential to prevent exploration. It remains to be seen whether
the initiative will succeed in the long term. Visit W yasuni-itt.gob.ec or W sosyasuni.org.

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ACCOMMODATION
El Auca Eloy Alfaro, at Napo T 06 288 0127. Choose from
rustic cabins or upscale h otel rooms with a garden court-
yard and good restaurant. $44
La Misión Camilo de Torrano T 06 288 0260, W hotel
mision.com. Next to the river, this is one of Coca's more
upscale hotels, with well-tended rooms, swimming pool,
steam ba ths, good restaurant and monkeys roaming the
grounds. $38
Oasis Camilo de Torrano T 06 288 0206. The pick of the
cheap options. Roo ms ar e basic and don't face the river,
but the terrace does. $12

sixty percent of Ecuador's mammals ,
including jaguar, puma and tapir. A
highlight is the spectacle at the clay licks
where dozens of parrots and parrakeets
congregate daily to feed.
UNESCO declared it an International
Biosphere Reserve in 1979 but this didn't
prevent oil exploration. The construction
of a road, Vía Maxus, through the park
and pollution from irresponsible oil
companies has damaged some areas.
However, large sections remain unscathed
and Yasuní still offers the best
opportunities in Ecuador to experience
pristine rainforest. Most tours coming
through Coca include a visit to the park.

EATING AND DRINKING
El Auca Napo, at Rocafuerte. The best upscale place in
town, with a varied menu - from shrimps in garlic to pork
chops with pineapple. $8-11.
La Casa de Maito Espejo. Good place for cheap, delicious
fish. $4-6.
Dayuma Hosteria La Mision Camilo de Torrano. Wide
range of meat, fish and salads on the riverside terrace. $6-12.
Emerald Forest Blues Bar Espejo, at Napo. A place
to drink with fellow jungle-seekers at this backpacker
hangout.

TENA
TENA is the most pleasant town in
the Oriente to be based for a few days.
Rather than being merely a gateway to
the jungle, it's a destination in itself, with
a slightly cooler climate, good hotels and
restaurants, and an impressive setting on
the river surrounded by lush forest.
Aside from wandering around the centre
and relaxing in a riverside restaurant,
the main attraction in town is Parque
Amazónico La Isla (daily 8.30am-6pm;
$1), just south of the main pedestrian
bridge. This park has several self-guided
forested trails, diverse plants and wildlife.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The terminal is 1km south of the centre. A taxi
from here or anywhere in town costs $1.

PARQUE NACIONAL YASUNÍ
YASUNÍ (park entrance $20) is one of
Ecuador's last great wildernesses and the
country's largest mainland national park.
The terrain of nearly 10,000 square
kilometres ranges from upland tropical
forest to seasonally flooded forest,
marshes, swamps, lakes and rivers. This
region was untouched by the last Ice Age
and has staggering biodiversity - more
than five hundred species of birds and