Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 602

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Begin at the Parque Central , dominated
by the towering yellow and white
Catedral . On the south side, Museo del
Banco Central (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm &
2-5pm; free) has a small collection of
pre-Columbian ceramics and religious
art. Walk south on Bolívar, passing the
beautiful Iglesia Santo Domingo , which
houses more than one hundred oil
paintings. A couple of blocks further is
the highlight of the centre, the Plaza de la
Independencia (also known as Plaza San
Sebastián), lined by brightly coloured
colonial buildings. On the southwest
corner is the Iglesia San Sebastián . he
focal point of the square is an impressive
clock tower with stone depictions of the
battles for Ecuador's independence.
After seeing Loja's historic old town,
the best thing to do is visit the parks,
easily reached by a short taxi ride ($2).
The best option is the Parque
Universitario de Educación Ambiental y
Recreación (PUEAR, daily 9am-4pm;
$1), which has trails up through the
forest and impressive views over Loja and
the valley. Across the road is the Jardín
Botánico Reynaldo Espinosa (Mon-Fri
9am-4pm, Sat & Sun 1-6pm; $0.60),

which has more than two hundred
species of orchids.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Flights from Quito and Guayaquil (from $80
one-way) arrive at the Aeropuerto La Toma, 33km west in
the town of Catamayo. A shared taxi (about $5/person) is
the only way to get directly to Loja from the airport, or take
a taxi to the town of Catamayo ($2) and take a bus from
there to Loja.
By bus Loja's bus terminal is 2km north of the centre on
Av Cuxibamba, with plenty of taxis ($1) and buses ($0.30)
to the centre. There is an hourly bus to Vilcabamba from
the bus terminal (75min, $1.25). Or go to Iberoamerica, at
Chile, and take a shared taxi with Taxi Ruta (45min; $1.50).
Tourist information The city's iTur o ce is on Bolívar,
at Eguiguren ( T 07 258 1251; Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm,
2-6.30pm & Sat 9am-1pm).

6

ACCOMMODATION
Central Park Hostal 10 de Agosto, at Bolívar T 07 256
1103. Pink bedspreads are not for everyone, but otherwise
this is one of the be st mi d-range choices, ideally located on
the Parque Central. $33
Libertador Colon 14-30 T 07 256 0779. The best option
to treat yourself, with plush decoration, s wim ming pool,
sauna and steam bath. Breakfast included. $65
Hostal Londres Sucre 07-51 T 07 256 1936. Ver y bas ic
rooms with shared bath for those on a tight budget. $10
Metropolitan 18 de Noviembre 06-31 T 07 257 0007.
A solid mid-range choice, with wooden flo ors a nd good-
sized rooms with cable TV and private bath. $24
Ì Las Orquideas Bolívar, at 10 de Agosto. The best of
the budget option s, w ith clean, neat rooms with TV and
private bathroom. $18

CROSSING INTO PERU
If you're in the southern sierra, it's better
to cross to Peru via Macará , 190km
southeast of Loja , than go down to the
coast and cross via frenetic Huaquillas. A
bus service operated by Cooperativa Loja
( T 07 257 9014) travels from Loja to Piura
in Peru via Macará (7am, 1pm & 11pm;
6hr). Buy tickets in advance if possible. The
company has o ces in Loja bus terminal
and next to Vilcabamba's bus terminal.
From Vilcabamba take a bus to Loja and
change. In Macará the bus stops at the
24-hour Migración o ce for your exit
stamp. Walk across the bridge, which
forms the border, to get the entry stamp
on the other side and then get back on
the bus. An alternative route is gaining
popularity at Zumba because it is more
convenient if visiting the Chachapoyas
ruins in Peru. There are three night buses
from Loja to Zumba via Vilcabamba (6hr),
and one bus passing Vilcabamba at 6am.

EATING AND DRINKING
Casa Tinku Lourdes, at Bolívar. A good place to catch live
music at weekends.
Forno di Fango 24 de Mayo, at Azuay. A local favourite
for great pizza and pasta dishes at $3-7. Daily.
El Jugo Natural Eguiguren, at Bolívar. A huge range of
fresh fruit and vegetable juices, plus fresh bread, veggie
specialities and ice cream. $1-3. Open daily.
Manantial Bolívar near Plaza de la Independencia. An
informal, inexpensive place to fill up on Ecuadorian staples
for $2-4.
Santo Remedio Plaza de la Independencia. Nightlife is
limited in Loja, but this bar with delightful decor is a good
option for a drink and dance.
Ì Shawarma Hez Bolívar near Plaza de la Indepen-
dencia. Enjoy something different in this beautifully deco-
rated restaurant with tasty Arabic food (mains $2-4) and
seating on traditional floor cushions. Closed Sun.