Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 600

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Banco de Guayaquil on Mariscal
Sucre, at Hermano Miguel; Banco de Austro on M. Sucre,
at Pdte A Borrero; Banco de Pacifico on Benigno Malo
9-75.
Hospitals Hospital Santa Ines on Av Daniel Cordova Toral
2-113, at Augustian Cueva ( T 07 281 7888); Hospital
Monte Sinai at Miguel Cordero 6-111, at Av Solano ( T 07
288 5595).
Internet Cuenc@net at C Larga, at Hermano Miguel;
ExploreNet on Padre Aguirre 10-96, at Lamar.
Police Main station at Benigno Malo & Antonio Muñoz
( T 07 281 0068).
Post o ces Main post o ce on Presidente Borrero, at
Gran Colombia; Fedex on Miguel Cordero 350, at Alfonso
Cordero.
Telephone Pacifictel on Benigno Malo, at Cordoba.

include wild llamas, which were
introduced to the park in the late 1990s.
There are eight hiking trails, ranging
from three hours to two full days. The
short hike around Laguna Toreadora is
the most popular, while the trail to
Laguna Totoras takes six hours. However,
the wind, rain and fog can often make
visits uncomfortable so come prepared
with rainproof gear, snacks, warm
clothing and walking boots. Most of
the park lies above 4000m so ensure
you are properly acclimatized before
tackling long hikes.
It's easy to visit independently by taking
a Cooperativa Alianza bus from the
terminal (1hr) and walking 100m to the
Laguna Toreadora refuge station, which
has maps and information on popular
hiking trails. The station also has a few
beds, or you can camp in the recreation
area for about $5 per person, but it gets
very cold. Cuenca-based tour operators
(see p.602) offer guided tours costing
about $40 per person.

6

BAÑOS CUENCA
The ideal way to relax after sightseeing
is to visit the small town of BAÑOS ,
a fifteen-minute drive southwest of
Cuenca, although the mineral content
of the baths is debatable and the
town doesn't rival its namesake in the
Central Highlands (see p.593). There
are two sets of baths: the Balneario
Durán (Av Ricardo Durán) has two
warm pools ($2.50); and there are
upmarket facilities up the road at the
Hostería Durán (Av Ricardo Durán;
T

VILLAGES AROUND CUENCA
There are several interesting indigenous
villages close to Cuenca, famous for
handicrafts. Gualaceo (45min east
of Cuenca; $0.60 by bus from the
terminal) has the largest indigenous
market in the area on Sundays with
a range of woven textiles - from shawls
to tapestries. Chordeleg is 5km further
and renowned for jewellery. A further
15 minutes by bus ($0.25) is Sigsig ,
well known for the Panama hat factory
on the edge of town, where you can
make considerable savings on hats
compared with Cuenca. On a separate
route, southeast of Cuenca, the village
of San Bartolome (30min by bus; $0.50)
is famous for handmade guitars.

07 289 2485, W hosteriaduran.com).
Use of the warm pool (36°C) and steam
rooms costs $5.50. Massages cost $25
per hour.
ARRIVAL
By bus The bus ($0.25) departs from Vega Muñoz, at
Padre Aguirre or Av 12 de Abril, at Av Fray Vicente Solano,
south of the river.
By taxi A taxi from Cuenca to Baños costs $4-5.

PARQUE NACIONAL EL CAJAS
Just 30km northwest of Cuenca, the
enormous PARQUE NACIONAL EL CAJAS
(daily 6am-5pm; $2) spans nearly
300 square kilometres of spectacular
moor-like páramo . With two hundred
lakes shining beneath rugged hillsides,
this is one of Ecuador's most compelling
wildernesses, offering great hiking and
trout-fishing opportunities. Highlights

LOJA
South of Cuenca, there is little to catch
the visitor's attention until LOJA , some
200km away. Loja was founded in 1548
and today boasts a well-preserved historic
centre, thriving music scene and
spectacular parks.