Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 596

THE INCA TRAIL TO INGAPIRCA
Though by no means as famous or impressive as the trail in Peru, keen hikers can make the
most of the countryside between Alausí and Cuenca by hiking this three-day trail. The start
of the trail is at Achupallas . To get there, take a bus from Riobamba towards Cuenca and get
off at La Moya, 10km south of Alausí. From there, it's a steep climb - or you can hitch a ride
to Achupallas. Alternatively, a taxi from Alausí direct to Achupallas costs $7. On the first day,
head south down the Rio Cadrul valley and through a narrow gap between two hills, Cerro
Mapahuiña and Cerro Callana Pucará. Continue towards Laguna Tres Cruces and camp nearby.
This hike is about six hours in total.
On day two, continue southwest and up along Cuchilla Tres Cruces, which commands great
views of the Quebrada Espíndola valley. Descend into the valley to the left of the final peak,
Quillo Loma. There are remains of an Inca road and the foundations of an Inca bridge. You'll
also find a trail to Laguna Culebrillas and more ruins at Paredones .
On day three, head southwest from Paredones on the 7m-wide Inca road. After the village of
San José turn right to El Rodeo , then follow the road to Ingapirca . It takes nearly five hours
in total. Take plenty of food, water and camping equipment and ensure you are prepared as
the entire trail is not well marked. Alternatively, take a guided tour. Several tour operators
based In Riobamba and Cuenca (see p.602) operate tours.

6

CUENCA
CUENCA is Ecuador's third-largest city,
with a population of 330,000, but it
doesn't feel that way, retaining the
atmosphere of a traditional Andean town.
The Incas established Tomebamba in
the late fifteenth century, one of the
most important cities in the Inca Empire.
It was destroyed shortly afterwards by
the civil war between brothers Atahualpa
and Huascar, and the Spanish later
founded Cuenca in 1557. Little remains
of the city's Inca past, although ruins
have been excavated behind the Museo
Pumapungo (see p.602). Note that most
museums and restaurants are closed on
Sundays, which is the best day to take
a trip outside the city to Cajas , Ingapirca
or Baños .

the Sun , constructed with more than
three thousand intricately carved blocks.
It's entertaining to stand in the sentry
posts of the temple and hear your
whispers reverberate through the walls.
Just outside the complex is a museum
(included in the entrance fee), which
houses a small collection of objects found
at the site.

ARRIVAL
By bus To get to Ingapirca, take a Transportes Cañar bus
from Cuenca's bus terminal (9am & 1pm; 2hr). The return
service is at 1pm & 4pm (weekends 1pm only). Guided tours
from Cuenca cost $45/person. If you're travelling south from
Alausí, get off the bus at El Tambo.

ACCOMMODATION
Options to stay overnight are limited and a day-trip is most
common.
Hostal Inti Huasi T 07 229 2940. Very basic rooms in
Ingapirca village, 5min fro m the site. Bring warm clothes,
as it gets cold at night. $12

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The cobbled streets, charming squares,
colonial architecture and magnificent
cathedral make the historic centre
a delight to explore; Cuenca was declared
a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Posada Ingapirca T 07 282 7401,
W posadaingapirca.com. A beautiful
converted farmhouse overlooking
the ruins, adorned with indigenous
art and with a decent restaurant
offering a range of Ecuadorian and
European sp ecialities. Breakfast
included.

The historic city centre
The focal point of Cuenca's centre is
Parque Calderón , an elegant square
filled with flower beds and palm trees,
dominated by the towering eighteenth-
century Catedral Nueva . The interior is
relatively bare except for the stunning

$73