Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 592

NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife in Baños has improved in recent years. Although it's
still rather sleepy during the week, it can get very busy at
weekends, particularly on Saturday night. Most of the best
places are situated on the stretch of Alfaro north of Ambato.
Jack Rock Ambato. Start the evening off with some rock
classics at this bar, which is decked out with music
memorabilia.
Leprechaun Bar Ambato. A popular spot with back-
packers. It has a dancefloor that gets busy at weekends
and a roaring bonfire out back.
Peña Ananitay 16 de Diciembre, at Espejo. The best
place in town to catch some traditional folk music.
Volcan Peña Ambato. Stands out on Ambato for offering
more of an authentic flavour with mainly Latin music. It's
popular with locals.

Transilvania 16 de Diciembre, at Oriente T 03 274 2281,
W hostal-transilvania.com. If you can get past the rather
bizarre name, you'll find this Israeli-owned hostal a great
deal, with bright, simple rooms and a café where big
breakfasts are served on petrified wooden tables. There's
also a pool table and a Middle East ern menu. It's popular
and fills up fast. Breakfast included. $15

6

EATING
Baños has many top-quality restaurants and offers some
of the best international cuisine outside Quito. Most of
the finest are away from the main street. The town is also
great for those with a sweet tooth, famous for dozens
of stalls selling membrillo (a gelatinous red block made
with guayaba) and milcocha , chewy sugar-cane bars that
you can watch being made, swung over wooden pegs.
Outside the market, there's also the memorable sight of
cuy (guinea pig) being roasted on a spit.
La Abuela Café Ambato, at 16 de Diciembre. Many of the
restaurants on the main street are uninspiring but this is
one of the best options, with a wide-ranging menu and
a balcony to watch the world go by. Mains $6.
Café Good 16 de Diciembre T 03 274 0592. Specializes
in vegetarian and Asian food. The Indian curry is good.
Mains $3-7.
Ì Casa Hood Martinez, at Alfaro T 099 462 0269.
This is a great place for a meal or a drink, with a vibrant
atmosphere and a wide-ranging menu of international
food including Mexican, Middle Eastern and Asian dishes,
plus smoothies and hot drinks. Mains $4-5. Closed Tues.
El Chozón de la Molienda Montalvo, at Pasaje Ibarra
T 03 274 1816, evenings only. Enjoy excellent barbecued
dishes such as lomo volcánico (steak in ginger sauce)
served in a thatched hut set in a large garden. Mains $5-8.
El Jardín 16 de Diciembre. A popular place to eat break-
fast or afternoon snacks alfresco in the leafy garden, with
a wide selection of dishes and an economical set menu.
Mains $6-9.
Pancho Villa Martinez, at 16 de Diciembre T 03 274
2138. Run by a friendly local couple, this is the best
Mexican in town with great enchiladas , fajitas , tacos and
burritos . Mains $5-8.
Quilombo Montalvo, at 12 de Noviembre T 03 274 2880.
A quirky, humorous place set in a wooden cabin decked
out with eclectic decor, from hammocks to horseshoes and
even a broken bicycle. The menu comes on cubes in little
bags and the barbecued steaks and chicken dishes ($6-8)
are cooked to perfection.
Ì Swiss Bistro Martínez, at Alfaro T 099 400 4019.
One of the best places in Ecuador for a sumptuous fondue.
The cow skins on the walls and even cow-patterned
lampshades place you in the heart of the Swiss Alps. The
cheese and meat fondues ($6-8) are fabulous, rounded
off by stewed pears in red wine for dessert.

VOLCÁN TUNGURAHUA
Tungurahua, which means “throat of fire”,
has a troubled relationship with Baños.
The volcano supplies the hot springs that
make the town famous, but eruptions have
caused regular alerts in recent years. The
volcano awoke from years of dormancy in
October 1999 with a spectacular eruption
that covered Baños in ash. However,
because the crater is on the opposite side,
the town escaped further damage. There
have been subsequent eruptions in August
2006 and at regular intervals in 2008, 2009
and in May 2010, when a 10km-high ash
cloud reached as far as Guayaquil, over
200km away. The volcano remains highly
active at the time of writing.
Bañenos have been living in Tungurahua's
shadow for centuries, but it's important to
check on the current state of activity before
visiting the town. Check the national press,
Instituto Geofísico's Spanish website
( W igepn.edu.ec) or the Smithsonian
Institution's English site ( W volcano.si.edu).
When Tungurahua is erupting, it becomes
a star attraction. The best views of the
volcano are from the town of Runtun
above Bellavista (see p.594). Most agencies
in town charge $5 for a night tour but
good views are rare.

RIOBAMBA
The main draw of RIOBAMBA is that it's
the starting point for the dramatic Nariz
del Diablo (Devil's Nose) train ride, but