Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 577

The Pichinchas
The twin peaks that give the province its
name dominate the landscape (both are
over 4700m). Rucu , meaning Elder in
Kichwa, and Guagua (baby) make good
hikes, but each has their problems. Rucu,
which is easily accessed from the top of
the teleférico , has suffered from crime
problems in recent years but there is
usually police presence on the trail at
weekends. Guagua is badly behaved and
a violent eruption showered Quito in ash
in 1999. It is still officially active and
harder to climb. Ask at a tour operator in
Quito for the latest situation.

Andean scenery populated by proud
indigenous cultures extends to the
Colombian border. Passing the
snowcapped Volcán Cayambe , the most
popular destination is Otavalo , whose
colourful Saturday market is one of the
largest in South America and heaven for
lovers of indigenous crafts and clothing.
Some 30km north are the stately squares
of La Ciudad Blanca, Ibarra , the largest
city in the region. North of Ibarra is
mainly visited by those crossing into
Colombia via Tulcán .

6

MINDO
Snuggled in a cloudforest at a pleasant
elevation of 1200m, MINDO is a truly
idyllic destination. Whether you want
to watch for some of the 400 species of
birds and 250 species of butterfly, swing
above the forest canopy on zip-lines,
plunge down the rivers on rubber tubes
or simply gaze at the waterfalls, there's
something for everyone. The cool climate
means that this is a far more comfortable
region to explore pristine forest than the
Oriente. Tourism has developed relatively
slowly in Mindo so you can usually avoid
the crowds in this sleepy town, although
weekends get busy with day-trippers.
Many attractions listed above are a
one- or two-hour walk from town. To
save time, share a taxi for $5-10.

Papallacta
About 65km (two hours) from Quito,
the road to Lago Agrio and Tena passes
through the town of Papallacta , home
to the best thermal baths in Ecuador.
he entrance to Las Termas de Papallacta
(daily 6am-9pm; $7; T 02 232 0040)
is a twenty-minute walk up a dirt road, so
consider a taxi. The complex is impressive,
with 25 baths of different temperatures.
On clear days there are great views over
the town and snowcapped Volcán Artisana.
Note that at 3300m it gets cold outside the
baths, so bring warm clothes.
ACCOMMODATION
Choza de Don Wilson T 06 232 0627. A great budget
option in town which has decent rooms, great views
and a good restaurant serving a $4 set menu. Trout is
a speciality and breakfast is included. $30 Mariposas de Mindo

The town is surrounded by the Bosque
Protector Mindo-Nambillo cloudforest
but most accessible areas are due south.
The dirt road leading out of town forks
after about 1km. To the left is the
butterfly farm Mariposas de Mindo
(9am-6.30pm; $5; W mariposasdemindo
.com), which breeds 25 species, including
the Brown Owl Eye and the Peleides
Blue Morpho, the latter with a wingspan
of 20cm. The guide shows the lifecycle
from egg to caterpillar, pupa to butterfly.
Come in the early morning and you may
be lucky and see them hatch.

The Northern
Highlands and
Western Andean
slopes
North of Quito lie two dramatically
different regions. To the northwest are
verdant cloudforests , filled with birdlife.
The small town of Mindo is the best base
to explore the forest's biodiversity and
indulge in adrenaline-pumping adventure
sports. To the northeast, magnificent

Mindo Canopy Adventure
Take a right when the dirt road out of
town forks to Mindo Canopy Adventure