Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 563

of damage. A better option is a taxi . In
bigger cities this is certainly the best way
to get around, though always check
credentials, avoid unmarked cabs and use
the meter (if there isn't one, negotiate in
advance). The safest option in cities is to
use a prebooked cab from a reputable
company - your hotel can recommend
some. Short trips around small towns
cost $1-2. In Quito, many taxis use
a meter and short trips cost $2-4. In
Guayaquil prices are a little higher and
meters rarely used. Taxi drivers in tourist
towns will often offer longer trips, but
rates are obviously higher than for buses.

On the coast, air-conditioning costs
extra, and budget places sometimes have
no hot water, although the climate
renders it unnecessary. Consider bringing
your own mosquito net if you plan to
spend time in the jungle or on the coast
during the rainy season. Deep in the
jungle, budget options are harder to find
so expect to pay more as part of a tour.
Camping is not widely available but
possible in some areas for $5 per person,
but you must usually bring your own
gear unless you book a tour.

6

FOOD AND DRINK
There's a lot more to Ecuadorian cuisine
than roasted guinea pig. Rice and beans
are the staple, so don't be surprised to be
served rice with everything. Note that use
of oils and animal fats can make the food
surprisingly unhealthy. Budget travellers
can enjoy cheap set menu almuerzos
(lunches) and meriendas (dinners), which
serve a soup, main course and drink for
$2-3. Sopa (soup), caldo (broth) and
seco (stew) are cheap ways to stay full.
Locro de papa is a blend of cheese, pasta
and potato; chupe de pescado is a thick
fish-and-vegetable soup. Seco de pollo
(chicken stew with coriander) or lomo
salteado (salted beef steak) are common
main courses, whereas caldo de pata (cow's
foot soup) is for the more adventurous.
In the highlands and Oriente the fish of
choice are tilapia and river trout. The
famous cuy (guinea pig) and hornado
(giant pigs) are a local delicacy and are
often roasted whole on a spit.
On the Ecuadorian coast, the seafood
is among the best in the world. Ceviche ,
a cold seafood dish marinated with lemon
and onion, is excellent. Encebollado , a fish
and onion soup, is often eaten to stave off
a hangover. A more interesting option is
cazuela , a seafood and vegetable broth
made with plantains and peanut. In
Manabi try biche , a sweeter fish soup with
corn and maduros (sautéed plantains).
The best white fish is corvina (sea bass),
which can be frito (fried), apanado
(breaded), a la plancha (grilled) or al
vapor (steamed). Note that shellfish is
a common cause of illness, so take care.

BY AIR
It's tempting for those pushed for time or
weary of the bus to fly . Prices of internal
flights range from $50-100 one-way.
TAME ( T 02 2397 7100, W www.tame
.com.ec) offers reasonable deals from
Quito to Coca, Cuenca, Esmeraldas,
Galápagos, Guayaquil, Lago Agrio, Loja,
Machala, Tulcan and Cali, Colombia.
There are flights from Guayaquil to
Coca, Cuenca, Esmeraldas, Galápagos,
Loja and Cali. Icaro ( T 02 244 8626, 02
245 0928) and Aerogal ( T 02 294 2800)
both serve Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca,
and are often cheaper than TAME.
Chilean airline LAN ( T 02 299 2300,
W

lan.com) also offers flights between
Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca, as well as
to the Galápagos.

ACCOMMODATION
Ecuador has a wide variety of
accommodation , from dirt-cheap rickety
shacks to comfortable mid-range hotels
and luxury high-rise options. A basic
dorm in a cheap pensión , residencial or
hostal can cost just $5. The mid-range is
where Ecuador offers best value. In most
destinations $20-40 gets you a good-sized
double room with comfortable beds,
private bathroom, hot water and cable TV.
The $40-100 range gets you a swankier
international city hotel, a colonial hacienda
or a secluded jungle lodge.
Cities such as Quito, Guayaquil and
Cuenca are slightly more expensive
but competition keeps the prices down.