Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 558

5 INTO BRAZIL AND PERU BY BOAT

Many travellers come to Leticia en route to Brazil or Peru. To get to the former, you need only
head to the port of Tabatinga , just across the border, which has virtually fused with the
Colombian town; there are no checkpoints between the two and all you have to do is walk
south along Av Internacional.
Boats leave for Manaus from Tabatinga's port on Wednesdays and Saturdays at around 2pm
(double-check times in advance and remember that the time in Tabatinga is 1hr ahead of
Leticia time), taking three days and four nights and costing around R$180 if you have your own
hammock, or around R$1000 for a double cabin. The reverse journey (upstream) takes around
six days and is more expensive.
High-speed passenger boats connect Leticia and Iquitos in Peru, leaving from Isla Santa
Rosa; since the boats depart early in the morning, it's easiest to stay in Tabatinga the night
before, especially since in dry season boats can only cross over to Isla Santa Rosa from
Tabatinga's Porta de Feira. Boats depart daily around 4am (double-check departure times), with
daily Transtur ( T 973 412 2945, W www.transtursa.com) services, while Transportes Golfinho
( T 973 412 3186, W www.gransportegolfinho.com) leave Tabatinga on Tuesdays and Thursdays,
coming back on Wednesdays and Sundays. Price includes breakfast and lunch. Don't forget to
get an exit stamp and relevant visa (see p.228 & p.713) before departing Leticia.

returning to Leticia (around 11.30am
and 4.30pm); if the boats are full, flag
down one of the motorized canoes or
cargo ships.

waste management and rainwater
collection; other Colombian towns could
learn a great deal here, and this may well
be the only Colombian settlement with
zero motorized traffic.

Puerto Nariño
Eco-friendly PUERTO NARIÑO sits around
75km upstream of Leticia and makes a
great base for spotting the Amazon's pink
dolphins; half-day excursions to Lago
Tarapoto cost around COP$55,000 for
up to three people. You can learn more
about the endangered creatures at the
riverfront Fundación Omacha ( W omacha
.org), located right near the docks. The
village itself, peopled mostly by the
indigenous Yagua, Tikuna and Cocoma,
is a shining example of recycling, organic

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat Three high-speed boats run daily from Leticia
at 8am, 10am and 2pm (COP$30,000; 2hr), returning at
7.30am, 11am and 4pm. Bring plenty of cash, as there are
no banks here.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Las Margaritas C 6 No. 6-80. This thatch-roofed place
does a great home-cooked buffet.
Moloka Napü C 4 No. 5-72 T 310 488 0998. The
friendliest place to stay, with sparse y et cosy room s, and
some of the best showers in Colombia. COP$25,000