Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 547

Ì Tin Tin Deo C 5 No. 38-71 W tintindeo.com. Unpreten-
tious salsa temple where the odd reggae tune also sneaks
onto the playlist and dancers sing along to the music.
Particularly popular with foreigners on Thurs. Entrance is
COP$5000 for women, COP$10,000 for men. Thurs 7pm-
2am, Fri & Sat 7pm-3am.

San Cipriano lies at the confluence of the
Escalarete and San Cipriano rivers and
there are nine sites for safe river swimming ,
as well as opportunities for tubing
(COP$6500). Follow the only road out of
the settlement (the river will be on your
right); well-signed tracks positioned every
few hundred metres lead down to the river.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
To reach San Cipriano, catch any Buenaventura bus from
Cali's bus terminal and ask to be let out at the junction to
Córdoba (3hr). Walk down the hill (10min) to the train
tracks from where carts leave roughly every hour. The
carts leave when they are full; agree the price of your cart
trip before setting off (around COP$10,000 return). San
Cipriano is just inland from the port city of Buenaventura,
making it a convenient stopover for adventurous souls
heading to the Pacific coast.

5

SAN CIPRIANO
Cali is a good springboard from which to
launch yourself to the unusual riverside
village of San Cipriano, en route to the
Pacific coast (see p.559). Set in the
sweltering tropical jungle 128km
northwest of Cali, the straggly jungle
community of SAN CIPRIANO offers an
entertaining change of pace for those
who need time out from city life. The
crystalline river here provides plentiful
secluded cooling-off opportunities, but it
is the unique journey to the 300-strong
community of African slave descendants
that has put San Cipriano on the
traveller's map. There's no road and only
a forest-flanked railway line linking San
Cipriano with the town of Córdoba, 6km
away, and since it sees very little train
action, to bring visitors from Córdoba,
inventive locals have attached motorcycle-
powered wooden carts to the tracks. he
journey down is nothing short of
hair-raising and exhilarating; since it's a
single-track railway, and there might be
traffic coming the other way, be prepared
to leap of in case of emergency.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
A number of restaurants serve meals and many also offer
basic accommodation. If you do plan to spend the night
here, bring a mosquito net.
Hotel David T 312 815 4051.The rooms here come with
fans, and shared or private bathrooms wit h cold water
only; the food is hearty and tasty. Per person COP$12,000

POPAYÁN
Although less illustrious than Cartagena,
Colombia's other open-air colonial
museum, POPAYÁN , has little reason to
envy its more celebrated rival. Founded in
1537 by Sebastián de Belálcazar on his

Bus terminal & Airport

POPAYÁN

EATING
Capriccio Café
Restaurante Italiano
Sabores del Mar
La Semilla Escondida
Tequila

5
2
3
7
4

Iglesia de San Francisco

Museo Casa
Valencia

Museo Negret &
Museo Iberoamericano
de Arte Moderno

Casa Museo
Mosquera

DRINKING AND
NIGHTLIFE
Bar La Iguana
El Sotareño

Casa Museo
Guillermo Leon
Valencía

1
6

N

Parque
Caldas

Iglesia de
Santo Domingo

Catedral

ACCOMMODATION
Hostel Caracol
Hotel Colonial
Parklife Hostel
Hotel Los Portales
Hostel Trail

5
2
4
3
1

Iglesia La
Ermita

0 100

metres