Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 541

sociable and the lo cation is grea t for goin g out in the S ector
Circunvalar. Dorms COP$20,000 , doubles COP$60,000
Hotel Mi Casita C 25 No. 6-20 T 6 333 9995. Close to
Parque El Lago Uribe and used to dealing with travellers,
this no-frills option is one of the better budget spots in
town, with ca ble TV and a garish colour scheme. Free wi-fi.
COP$69,000

a spectacular backdrop of three tall
waterfalls. There's also a lavish spa on site.
The springs are easily reachable from
Santa Rosa de Cabal, 9km west. Frequent
buses run from Pereira to Santa Rosa
de Cabal (COP$2500, 40min). From
the corner of Santa Rosa's la galería
(marketplace), opposite the police
station, chivas and buses (try to catch
a chiva if possible) leave for the hot
springs at 7am, 10am, noon, 3pm and
5pm (COP$3000, 45min; double-check
timetables before departure), coming
back pretty much straight after. If you
miss the bus, one of the Willy Jeeps
parked by the market will take you there
for COP$20,000.

5

EATING AND DRINKING
The majority of good eating and drinking options are located
in the Sector Circunvalar, on or near the Av Circunvalar.
Crepes & Wa es Cra 8 No. 19-17. Branch of the
ubiquitous chain where the myriad sweet and savoury
offerings are always a crowd-pleaser. Wa es from
COP$6000. Daily 11am-8pm.
Ì Leña y Carbón This Argentine-style steakhouse
specializes in what is possibly the best grilled meat in
Colombia. You are presented with a beautifully cooked cut
of your choice with all the trimmings by smartly attired
waiters and it's all amazing value for the quality and
quantity. Steaks COP$16,000. Daily noon-11pm.
Maria La Mexicana C 9A No. 15-14. Perch on one of the
colourful chairs on the patio and choose from authentic
quesadillas (COP$12,000), overflowing burros (COP$9500),
tacos (COP$5000) and other beautifully cooked Mexican
food. When you're done, add a scribble to the happy
customer wall. Daily noon-10pm.
Ì El Parnaso Cra 6 No. 23-35. Enjoy a cocktail
(COP$12,000) in this cool outdoor garden bar, with fairy lights
strung between guava trees, to a rock-indie soundtrack over
which you can still make yourself heard. Closed Sun.

Termales San Vicente
These lavishly landscaped hot springs
(daily 8am-1am; COP$25,000;
T 6 333 6157, W sanvicente.com.co),
35km northeast of Pereira via the town
of Santa Rosa de Cabal, feature a
selection of steaming medicinal thermal
pools scattered across some five square
kilometres of cloudforest, river, waterfalls
and luxuriant countryside. At 2330m, it
gets pretty chilly up here, so it helps that
the average pool temperature is 38°C.
A variety of spa treatments is offered,
including massage (COP$40,000) and
mud therapy (COP$20,000). If you
want to spend the night at the springs,
the most cost-effective option is
camping (COP$85,000 including
entrance fee and breakfast). Further up
the accommodation ladder are cabañas
(COP$180,000).
The easiest way to get to San Vicente is
with one of the direct daily buses that
leave at 9am from the thermal springs'
office in Pereira at Cra 13, No. 15-62,
returning at 5pm. This service only runs
during the week if there is a minimum of
ten people. The price, including entrance,
transport and lunch, is COP$55,000.
Alternatively, you can make your own
way to the spa by catching a bus to Santa
Rosa from the bus terminal in Pereira
and grabbing a seat on a Willy Jeep
(ex-US military 4WD) from la galería
(market) for Termales San Vicente
(CP$50,000/80,000 one-way/return).

DAY TRIPS FROM PEREIRA
Pereira makes a good base for striking out
on numerous ventures to the nearby hot
springs, hiking trails and coffee fincas. .

Termales Santa Rosa
Sitting at the foot of a 25m-high waterfall
and surrounded by lush greenery, these
attractive hot springs (daily 9am-
midnight; COP$14,000; W termales.com
.co) consist of four thermal pools and a
visitor centre with cafeteria and massages
on offer, and you can also take a dip in
the natural pool directly beneath the
waterfall. Just a little further down the
dirt road are the thermal springs (daily
9am-10pm; COP$36,000; W termales
.com.co) attached to the Hotel Termales ,
which resembles an alpine chalet, with
one large pool and two thimble-sized hot
tubs available to non-guests, set against