Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 530

PROVIDENCIA
Tiny PROVIDENCIA is the antithesis of
its sister island: a quiet place with a
population of around five thousand,
where everyone knows everyone else,
where most speak an English-based
Creole; with a mountainous interior
covered with lush vegetation, and the
world's third-largest barrier reef
beckoning divers from all over the world.
It's difficult not to fall in love with
Providencia; many do, and end up
staying far longer than they intended.

5

the coastal road, you pass the turn-off
to Bahía Suroeste (Southwest Bay), with
a couple of hotels and places to eat. On
the west side of the island, Aguadulce is
a scattering of shops and services, while
between Aguadulce and Santa Isabel,
there are a couple of turn-offs to beaches,
particularly in the Catalina Bay area.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Several Satena ( W satena.com) flights daily
(30min) connect Providencia with San Andrés only; there are
no flights from the mainland. Be sure to reconfirm your return
flight upon arrival in Providencia. Luggage allowance is 10kg.
Pick-up trucks meet flights and will drop you off anywhere
on the island for a non-negotiable COP$23,000; if there are
several people going to the same place, costs are shared.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Providencia is circled by a 16km loop of a
coastal road, so it's easy to see all the sights
along it. At the north tip of the island is
Santa Isabel , the main “town”, with ATMs
and other services. A pedestrian bridge
takes you across to the minute Santa
Catalina Island - after dark, it's possible to
see manta rays swimming under the bridge.
On Santa Catalina Island, a footpath leads
past the labelled mangroves to Morgan's
Cannon on the right, while a slightly
longer walk to the left leads you up to
Fort Warwick and down to Morgan's Cove
where it's possible to snorkel.
Back on Providencia and heading
clockwise, a road loops off from the main
coastal road through Maracaibo, where
the pricey but good seafront restaurant,
Deep Blue , is a fantastic spot for an
oceanside drink. Directly across the water
is Cayo Cangrejo , a tiny island with some
superb snorkelling and a great view of
Providencia from the top (boat trips to
Cayo Cangrejo are easily arranged
through your accommodation).
Heading south past the airport, you
eventually pass Haley's Point - a lookout
spot with an all-encompassing view of the
reef beyond. In the south of the island,
a hiking trail leads from Casabaja village
up El Pico (360m), the island's only
mountain, with superb 360-degree views
from the top. The hike takes around
ninety minutes one-way; be sure to ask
for directions and bring plenty of water.
From Casabaja, another road leads
south to Bahía Manzanillo (Manchineel
Bay), the liveliest of the beaches, with
a bar and restaurants. Further west long

GETTING AROUND AND INFORMATION
By bike/colectivo/scooter To get around the island,
you can either rent a bicycle, a scooter (around COP$60,000
from operators in Aguadulce and Santa Isabel), or you can
flag down passing vehicles who can give you a lift for
around COP$2000 (negotiate).
Tourist information There's a helpful tourist booth in
Santa Isabel by the bridge to the Santa Catalina island
(daily 8am-5pm).

ACCOMMODATION
Mr Mac Aguadulce T 8 514 8283. Large, simple rooms
right by the water. Ideal for self-caterers, as rooms come
with kitchene ttes; discounts for solo travellers. Doubles
COP$50,000
Refugio De La Luna El Bluff T 8 514 8460,
E [e-mail]. At this lovely posada on the
south side of the island, Carmeni and her son Bruce go out
of their way to make you feel welcome. Up to three people
can stay in the apartment below the owners' house, you
can snorkel in the bay below, and dinner is cooked on
request. The location is a little isolate d, but you can rent
transport through Bruce. Three people COP$240,000
Sirius Hotel Bahía Suroeste (Southwest Bay) T 8 514
8213, W www.siriushotel.net. Chilled-out beachside hotel
whose owner is happy to organize diving and boating
outings for you (the dive shop is on the premises). The a/c
rooms are clean and spacious and several friendly dogs
roam th e property; h efty discounts for solo travellers.
Doubles COP$200,000

EATING AND DRINKING
The liveliest part of the island is Bahía Manzanillo
(Manchineel Bay), where there are a couple of basic
beachside eateries serving heaped portions of curry crab
and more.