Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 507

Hostel Santander-Aleman C 12 No. 7-63 T 7 724 2535,
W hostelsantanderalemantv.com. With great views from its
terrace, this hostel with a sociable atmosphere appeals to
those who want a quiet night after the day's adventures.
Great open-air shower and a DVD player plus film collection
(including in English). Breakfast fr om COP$5500. Dorms
COP$17,000 , doubles COP$45,000

Fri-Sun 10am-7pm; COP$13,000;
W parquenacionaldelchicamocha.com)
holds a collection of tacky, forgettable
attractions situated next to a beautiful
canyon. he teleférico , a cable car
which runs down into the canyon and
over to the other side, is the best way
to get sweeping views (Wed & Thurs
9-11am & 1-5.30pm, Fri-Sun
9am-4.30pm; park entrance with
teleférico COP$38,000). You can also
watch the scenery whizz by at much
higher speed while hurtling along
a zipline (COP$26,000), or get a
bird's-eye view by paragliding above
the valley (COP$180,000), though it
is far more expensive than at Curiti,
which is nearer town.

5

EATING AND DRINKING
By far the liveliest place to drink on most evenings is the
main plaza, which is usually full of families and young
people. In the evenings, vendors grill meat skewers and
corn on the cob. The central market between calles 13 and
14 is the best bet for self-catering supplies, as well as fresh
fruit juice, and is open until 2pm daily. By the riverside
park, vendors sell a local speciality - fried giant ants.
Donde Betty Cra 10, cnr Parque Central. The best place
for fruit juices (COP$2500) and superb scrambled eggs,
each portion cooked and served in its own miniature frying
pan; try the huevos rancheros (with fresh tomato, chorizo
and coriander) or the huevos Israeelis (with onions and
spinach). Mains COP$3000. Mon-Sat 8.30am-3pm.
Ì Gringo Mike's C 12 No. 8-35. Sooner or later, everyone
makes their way to this candlelit courtyard for the mega
breakfast burritos, brie-and-bacon burgers the size of your
head, doorstop sandwiches and that old gringo dessert
favourite, brownie with ice cream. Mains COP$17,000. Daily
8am-noon & 5-11pm.
El Maná C 10 No. 9-12. Ask a local for advice on restaurants
and you'll probably be directed here: El Maná is extremely
popular for its dependable set meals (COP$10,000), which
come with a choice of dishes such as grilled trout and carne
asado (grilled meat). You shan't leave hungry. Mon-Sat
11am-2.30pm & 6-9pm, Sun 11am-3pm.

BARICHARA
With its undulating stone-slab roads,
clay-tiled tejas roofs draped in
bougainvillea blossoms and single-storey
adobe homes, the sedate colonial town of
BARICHARA looks like it hasn't changed
much in its 250 years. So well kept is
the town that it was declared a national
monument in 1978 and, with its
historical buildings restored, it now
makes a popular set for Spanish-language
films. Barichara is considerably less
crowded than similarly picturesque
Villa de Leyva, making it a peaceful,
if expensive, resting spot for travellers.
Indeed, the town's name comes from
an Indian word, Barachala , meaning
“a good place to rest”. Alternatively, it
makes for a great day-trip from San Gil.

AROUND SAN GIL
Cascadas de Juan Curí
For a spectacular swim in a natural pool
at the base of a 180m-high waterfall, or
to abseil down its face (see box, p.510),
take a trip out of town to the Juan Curí
waterfalls . Take a bus to Charalá (30min)
from Calle 10 on the east side of the
bridge, and ask to be let off at the Las
Cascadas sign. From here it's a 25-minute
walk to the waterfalls along either of the
two trails; you might be asked to pay
COP$5000 by the owners of the land.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Barichara's quiet streets, lined with
beautiful architecture, combined with
a tranquil vibe, are its biggest attraction.
Once you've checked out the striking
Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción
which stands on fluted sandstone columns
on the Parque Principal, the leafy main
square, take a look at the elaborate marble
tombs at the Capilla de Jesús Resucitado
cemetery . Surrounding an attractive patio
at Casa de la Cultura (Mon-Sat 9am-
noon & 2-5.30pm, Sun 9am-1pm;
COP$1000) is a collection of regional

Parque Nacional del Chichamocha
About an hour from San Gil on the road
to Bucaramanga, Colombia's newest
national park (Tues-hurs 9am-6pm,